{"title":"Honda Element","description":"","products":[{"product_id":"hybrid-racing-heavy-duty-gear-selector-springs","title":"Hybrid Racing Heavy-Duty Gear Selector Springs","description":"\n\u003cp\u003eOur heavy-duty gear selector springs offer an increase in the preload and 82% stiffer spring rate over the factory parts which aids in \"centering\" the gear selector and shifter. Upgrading these springs will make your gear changes a bit sharper since they replace the soft OEM ones. These parts are also included in every Hybrid Racing performance shifter cable kit which we have been using and selling for nearly a decade.\u003c\/p\u003e\n ","brand":"Hybrid Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48025757286696,"sku":"HYB-GSS-01-05","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/HYB-GSS-01-05_5.jpg?v=1721414865"},{"product_id":"hybrid-racing-heavy-duty-transmission-detent-springs","title":"Hybrid Racing Transmission Detent Springs for B\/D\/F\/H\/K Series","description":"\u003ch3\u003eHybrid Racing Detent Springs – K, B, D, F, H Series Transmissions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\nThis is one of those mods people always say the same thing about: \u003cem\u003e“I wish I did this sooner.”\u003c\/em\u003e If your Honda manual transmission feels vague, loose, or rubbery, Hybrid Racing detent springs are an easy bolt-on fix that makes a real, immediate difference—without turning your shifter into a workout.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nThese heavy-duty detent springs increase preload and spring rate in the transmission’s gear selector mechanism, giving your shifts a more defined, confident feel. Instead of the shifter “falling” into gear, you’ll feel it click into place with intention. The result is a crisp, predictable shift that still feels comfortable on the street.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nHybrid Racing detent springs are up to 80% stiffer than factory Honda springs. They tighten up the forward and backward movement of the shifter, while the matching \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/hybrid-racing-heavy-duty-gear-selector-springs?_pos=2\u0026amp;_psq=gear+selector\u0026amp;_ss=e\u0026amp;_v=1.0\" target=\"_blank\" style=\"\"\u003egear selector springs\u003c\/a\u003e (K Series Transmissions) handle the left-to-right gate motion. Together, they reduce slop in worn transmissions and sharpen engagement in fresh builds. It’s not aggressive or harsh, just cleaner, tighter, and more satisfying.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nYou’ll notice the difference on your first drive. Daily driving feels more connected, spirited driving feels more precise, and track use benefits from quicker, more deliberate gear changes. This is a popular upgrade for enthusiasts who want better shifter feel without sacrificing street manners.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nThese transmission detent springs are compatible with Honda B Series, D Series, F Series, H Series, and K Series manual transmissions. Finished in black zinc for corrosion resistance, they’re built to handle long-term street use or repeated hard driving.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nIf your shifter feel has been bothering you but you don’t want to go overboard, this is the sweet spot. Simple install, noticeable improvement, and one of the most cost-effective Honda manual transmission upgrades you can make. \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-style: italic;\"\u003e*Some images depict the OEM Honda Detent Spring Bolt, Washer, and Detent Ball. These items can be purchased separately here, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-detent-spring-bolt-24519-pb6-000?_pos=1\u0026amp;_psq=detent+bal\u0026amp;_ss=e\u0026amp;_v=1.0\u0026amp;variant=44748318048290\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eOHA-24519-PB6-000.\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatibility\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese Hybrid Racing detent springs fit most Honda manual transmissions. How many springs you’ll use depends on the gearbox:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUses all 3 springs: Honda B Series AWD, Honda K Series FWD and AWD, Honda D Series 1996–2000, Honda GK5 Fit\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUses 2 of the 3 springs: Honda B Series FWD, Honda F Series F20 and F22A, Honda H Series\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSome units, like many B Series boxes, also use an internal detent spring for the 5th\/reverse gate. Swapping that one means opening the case, so plan on doing it during a rebuild or synchro refresh.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eNot Compatible With\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2016+ Honda Civic K Series or L Series transmissions\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda J Series V6 transmissions\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda Fit and CR-Z L Series transmissions\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda Civic 2006–2015 R Series\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eTighter, more precise shift feel and better gear engagement\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUp to 80% stiffer than OEM Honda detent springs\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eImmediate, noticeable change in shift feedback after install\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHelps bring worn or sloppy transmissions back to life\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks with Honda B-Series detent springs, Honda F-Series detent springs, Honda H-Series detent springs, Honda K-Series detent springs, and D-series gearboxes\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eLegit upgrade for both street car detent springs builds and track cars\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBlack zinc finish for corrosion resistance and clean install\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSKU: HYB-DTS-01-03 – Hybrid Racing transmission springs kit\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you’re chasing tighter, cleaner, more confident shifts from your Honda B, D, H, F, or K transmission, these heavy-duty detent springs for Honda boxes do the job without drama. Simple, affordable, and proven on our own cars, they’re a solid upgrade you’ll feel every time you grab the next gear.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Hybrid Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48025757810984,"sku":"HYB-DTS-01-03","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/1500x4_f9925af5-ab48-4508-ac71-8757b1321725.png?v=1718414888"},{"product_id":"oem-honda-coolant-switch","title":"Hybrid Racing Replacement Coolant Switch","description":"\u003ch3\u003eHybrid Racing Replacement Coolant Switch - K Series Swaps\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRunning a K swap with a Hybrid Racing radiator and need a replacement coolant switch? This is the Hybrid Racing coolant switch that threads into the M14 x 1.5 port on Hybrid Racing K swap radiators or any other radiator with the same thread pitch. It activates your radiator fan at approximately 199°F and turns it off at approximately 189°F. You're not guessing when the fan should kick on or running a manual toggle switch. The fan turns on automatically when it needs to.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eActivates at 199°F, Deactivates at 189°F\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe switch is calibrated to close the circuit and turn on your radiator fan when coolant temps hit around 199°F (92°C). Once temps drop back down to around 189°F (87°C), the switch opens and the fan shuts off. This keeps your coolant temps in the safe range without running the fan constantly or letting temps climb too high before the fan kicks on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePlug and Play with K Series Chassis Harness\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe switch plugs directly into the factory K series chassis harness or Hybrid Racing fan relay kits. You're not repinning connectors or splicing wires to make it work. If you're running a K swap in an older chassis with the Hybrid Racing radiator and fan setup, this switch plugs right into your existing harness.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBrass Body, Pre-Installed Crush Washer\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe switch has a brass body that resists corrosion and handles the vibration and heat that comes with being threaded into a radiator. A crush washer's pre-installed so you get a leak-free seal when you torque it down. You're not hunting for the right washer or dealing with leaks after installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHybrid Racing replacement coolant switch\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBrass body construction\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePre-installed crush washer\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eActivates fan at approximately 199°F (92°C)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDeactivates fan at approximately 189°F (87°C)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eM14 x 1.5 thread pitch\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePlug and play with K series chassis harness\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatible Applications\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHybrid Racing K swap radiators\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAny radiator with M14 x 1.5 fan switch port\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK series engine swaps (K20, K24)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e This switch is designed for Hybrid Racing K swap radiators but will work with any radiator that has an M14x1.5 thread pitch fan switch port. Make sure your fan relay and wiring are set up to work with a temperature-activated switch before installing.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Hybrid Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48025763873064,"sku":"HYB-CSW-01-02","price":44.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/HYB-CSW-01-02_0uw0.jpg?v=1771536960"},{"product_id":"hybrid-racing-2002-2004-k-series-honda-ecu-immobilizer-delete-chip","title":"Hybrid Racing ECU Immobilizer Bypass for Honda K Series","description":"\u003ch3\u003eHybrid Racing ECU Immobilizer Bypass for Honda\/Acura K-Series Engines\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nThe Hybrid Racing ECU Immobilizer Bypass lets you run a stock 2002–2004 Honda\/Acura ECU in K-swap applications without the headaches of immobilizer faults or multiplex errors. Instead of buying a Type R ECU or a Hondata KPro, this compact removal unit allows you to keep your original ECU and eliminate immobilizer lockouts by following a simple four-wire install. It also clears the multiplex P0600 code so your ECU runs error-free after the swap.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nEngineered for simplicity and reliability, the unit works with the following factory ECU codes: PLM, PLR, PND, PNF, PRA, PRB, and PPA. Before purchase, confirm the code on the side of your ECU to ensure compatibility. Designed for K-series engine swaps, this bypass is ideal for enthusiasts doing K-swaps into Hondas and Acuras who want a clean, OEM ECU solution without additional tuning hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nInstallation is straightforward: connect the four wires exactly as outlined in the included install guide and the unit integrates with your stock wiring to remove immobilizer control and suppress the P0600 multiplex error. The result is an easy, cost-effective path to a functional, factory ECU setup while keeping your electrical system tidy and error-free.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAllows use of stock 2002–2004 Honda\/Acura ECU in K-swap applications\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eRemoves factory immobilizer restrictions for seamless ECU operation\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDisables multiplex code P0600 to run an error-free ECU\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSimple 4-wire installation with clear install guide\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCompatible with ECU codes: PLM, PLR, PND, PNF, PRA, PRB, PPA (confirm before purchase)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eClean, OEM-style solution — no need to buy a Type R ECU or Hondata KPro\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003cul\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nWhether you’re building a street K-swap or a track car, the Hybrid Racing ECU Immobilizer Bypass provides a clean, reliable, and affordable way to keep your stock ECU working flawlessly. Verify your ECU code before ordering and follow the install guide for best results.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- SEO Keywords (place in your product backend or meta tags): --\u003e\n\u003cmeta name=\"keywords\" content=\"Hybrid Racing immobilizer bypass, K-swap immobilizer removal, Honda K-series ECU bypass, Acura ECU immobilizer removal, P0600 disable, use stock 02-04 ECU, Hybrid Racing ECU bypass, K-swap wiring, K-series ECU compatibility\"\u003e\n\u003cmeta name=\"description\" content=\"Hybrid Racing ECU Immobilizer Bypass lets you use a stock 2002–2004 Honda\/Acura ECU in K-swaps. Removes immobilizer, disables P0600, simple 4-wire install. Compatible: PLM, PLR, PND, PNF, PRA, PRB, PPA.\"\u003e\n","brand":"Hybrid Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48025772818728,"sku":"HYB-IMR-01-05","price":249.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/HYB-IMR-01-05_3.jpg?v=1768190142"},{"product_id":"hybrid-racing-k-swap-coolant-temp-sensor-adapter","title":"Hybrid Racing K Swap Coolant Temp Sensor Adapter","description":"\u003ch3\u003eHybrid Racing K Swap Coolant Temp Sensor Adapter\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSwapped a K series into your EF, EG, EK, DC, or DA chassis and now your factory temp gauge doesn't work? The Hybrid Racing coolant temp sensor adapter fixes that. Your factory cluster's looking for the two-wire B or D series coolant sender, but the K series uses a completely different sensor. This adapter screws into the unused idle air assist valve port on your K series water neck and gives you the correct threads to bolt in your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/oem-honda-thermo-unit?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=f988255cc\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\"\u003etemperature sensor\u003c\/a\u003e. Your temp gauge works just like it did with the original engine. No splicing wires, no inline adapters, no recalibration.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eUses the Factory Idle Air Assist Port\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe K series water neck has a port for the idle air assist valve that most people delete during a swap. This adapter threads into that port and provides the correct internal threads for a B or D series coolant sender. You're using a port that's already there instead of splicing into a coolant hose or drilling and tapping something that wasn't meant to have a sensor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCNC Machined 6061 Aluminum\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe adapter's CNC machined from 6061 aluminum and hard anodized black. The anodizing resists corrosion and the aluminum handles the heat without issue. It's not a cheap brass fitting that'll corrode or a plastic adapter that'll crack from heat cycles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eNo Hose Splice Adapters\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMost people use inline hose adapters to splice the coolant sender into a coolant line. Those adapters take up space, look ugly, and they're another potential leak point. This adapter bolts straight to the water neck using a port that's already there, so your engine bay stays clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHybrid Racing coolant temp sensor adapter\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCNC machined 6061 aluminum\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHard anodized black finish\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCorrect threads for K series water neck and B\/D series sender\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSealing washer included\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatible K Series Engines\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20A, K20A2, K20A3, K20Z1, K20Z3\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24A, K24A1, K24A2, K24A4, K24A8\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAny K series water neck with idle air assist valve port\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatible Chassis\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1988-1991 Honda Civic\/CRX (EF)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1992-2000 Honda Civic (EG\/EK)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1993-1997 Honda Del Sol\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1990-1993 Acura Integra (DA)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra (DC)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAny chassis with B or D series coolant temp sender\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"Hybrid Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48025789006120,"sku":"HYB-CTA-01-05","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/HYB-CTA-01-05_4ku9.jpg?v=1771521676"},{"product_id":"hybrid-racing-timing-chain-tensioner-for-k-series-engines","title":"Hybrid Racing Timing Chain Tensioner for K20A\/K20Z\/K24A","description":"\u003ch3\u003eHybrid Racing Timing Chain Tensioner - Honda\/Acura K Series\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRunning aftermarket cams in your K series and worried about the timing chain tensioner failing? The factory K series timing chain tensioner wears out fast when you're running aftermarket cams with aggressive ramp rates. The factory tensioner's ratchet teeth are soft and they wear down, which lets the timing chain go slack. When the chain goes slack, it skips timing and your valves hit your pistons. We designed our timing chain tensioner from scratch with hardened tool steel ratchet teeth and a heat-treated chromoly piston. It's built to handle the fast ramp rates of aftermarket cams without wearing out. If you're running aggressive cams or you're revving past 8,500 RPM regularly, you need our tensioner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy the Factory Tensioner Fails with Aftermarket Cams\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe factory K series timing chain tensioner uses a ratchet mechanism to keep tension on the timing chain. When you install aftermarket cams with fast ramp rates, the valvetrain loads increase and the timing chain whips harder. That extra load wears down the soft factory ratchet teeth. Once the teeth wear, the ratchet slips and the tensioner can't maintain tension on the chain. The chain goes slack, skips a tooth on the cam gear, and your valves crash into your pistons. That's a destroyed motor. Some companies sell \"upgraded\" tensioners that are just factory tensioners with stiffer springs, but that doesn't fix the root problem. The teeth still wear out, and the stiffer spring actually makes your timing chain stretch faster. We designed our tensioner to solve the actual problem instead of just slapping a Band-Aid on it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHardened Tool Steel Ratchet Teeth\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe make our ratchet teeth from hardened tool steel—the same material used in high-end impact wrench ratchets. Tool steel's way harder than the factory tensioner's teeth, so it resists wear even when you're running aggressive cams. Our dual-ratchet design meshes with a heat-treated chromoly piston, which is also way harder than the factory piston. The hardened teeth and piston don't wear down like the factory parts do, so our tensioner maintains proper chain tension even after years of hard use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eTighter Piston Fit Prevents Misalignment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOur tensioner's piston fits tighter into the timing chain guide than the factory piston does. That tighter fit keeps the ratchet mechanism aligned properly, which prevents premature wear. The factory tensioner's piston has more slop, which lets the ratchet mechanism misalign slightly. That misalignment causes uneven wear on the ratchet teeth, which makes the tensioner fail faster. Our tighter tolerances eliminate that problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eOptimized Oil Passages for High RPM\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe internal oil passages in our tensioner are optimized to respond to oil pressure changes faster than the factory tensioner. When you rev the motor quickly, oil pressure spikes and the tensioner needs to adjust instantly. The factory tensioner's oil passages are restrictive, so it responds slowly. Our oil passages are designed to flow more oil faster, which means our tensioner responds quicker when you're revving the motor hard or shifting at high RPM.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBuilt from Scratch by Us\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe manufacture this tensioner from scratch. It's not a rebuilt factory tensioner with upgraded parts slapped in. Every component's designed and machined specifically for this application. We've tested this tensioner for years in race motors that get abused constantly, and it's proven to last where factory tensioners fail. We run these tensioners in our own race cars and customer builds because we know they work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHybrid Racing timing chain tensioner\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHardened tool steel dual-ratchet teeth\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHeat-treated chromoly piston\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eTighter piston fit for proper alignment\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eOptimized internal oil passages\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAll mounting hardware included\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatible Engines\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20A2, K20A3 (RSX, Civic Si)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20Z1, K20Z3 (RSX, Civic Si)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24A1, K24A2, K24A4, K24A8 (CR-V, TSX, Accord, Element)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits Your Car\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX (K20A2, K20A3, K20Z1)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX (K24A2)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord (K24A4, K24A8)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2011 Honda Civic Si (K20A3, K20Z3)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V (K24A1)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element (K24A4, K24A8)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e If you're running aftermarket cams, you need our tensioner. Don't wait until your factory tensioner fails. By the time you hear timing chain noise, the tensioner's already worn and you're risking a bent valve or worse. Install our tensioner before you install your cams. If you're running stock cams but you're revving past 8,500 RPM regularly, you should upgrade your tensioner too. The factory tensioner's fine for stock power and stock RPM, but it's not designed for high-RPM abuse or aggressive cam profiles.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Hybrid Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48025810436392,"sku":"HYB-TCT-01-05","price":329.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/HYB-TCT-01-05_4mlb.jpg?v=1772736171"},{"product_id":"hybrid-racing-performance-radiator-cap-c","title":"Hybrid Racing Performance Radiator Cap","description":"\u003ch3\u003eHybrid Racing High-Pressure Radiator Cap - 1.3 Bar (Type-D \u0026amp; Type-F)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRunning your car hard at the track or in the summer heat? Your coolant's getting close to boiling and your factory 1.1 bar radiator cap's not holding enough pressure to keep it liquid. Our Hybrid Racing 1.3 bar radiator cap raises your cooling system pressure from 1.1 bar to 1.3 bar, which raises your coolant's boiling point. When your coolant boils, it turns into steam. Steam doesn't cool your engine. You get air pockets (cavitation) in your cooling system, your engine overheats, and you warp your head or blow your head gasket. Our 1.3 bar cap keeps your coolant liquid at higher temperatures so your cooling system actually works when you're pushing your car hard.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's Why You Need a Higher-Pressure Cap\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYour cooling system's pressurized. When your coolant heats up, it expands and creates pressure inside your cooling system. Higher pressure raises the boiling point of your coolant. Your factory 1.1 bar cap holds about 16 PSI. Water boils at 100°C (212°F) at sea level with no pressure. At 16 PSI (1.1 bar), water boils around 120°C (248°F). Our 1.3 bar cap holds about 19 PSI, which raises the boiling point to around 123°C (253°F). That extra 3°C (5°F) of headroom matters when you're at the track or stuck in traffic on a hot day. If your coolant boils, you get steam and air pockets in your system. Your water pump can't pump steam effectively, so your coolant stops flowing and your engine overheats.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eType-D vs Type-F - Two Different Cap Styles\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe make our radiator cap in two styles: Type-D and Type-F. They're different physical designs that fit different radiator neck styles. The cap style you need depends on your chassis and year. Type-D fits most 90s and 2000s Honda\/Acura applications plus newer 11th gen Civics and DE5 Integras. Type-F fits older 80s\/90s applications like EF Civics and DA Integras, plus newer 10th gen Civics and FK8\/FL5 Type Rs. You can't use a Type-D cap on a radiator that needs Type-F, and vice versa. The cap won't seal properly and you'll lose coolant. Check your chassis in the fitment list below to see which cap you need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eType-D Applications\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eType-D caps fit most Honda and Acura models from the 90s and 2000s, plus some newer applications. If you've got an EG Civic, DC Integra, EP3 Civic Si, RSX, S2000, or Element, you need Type-D. Newer 11th gen Civics (2022+) and 2023+ Integra Base\/A-Spec also use Type-D.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eType-F Applications\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eType-F caps fit older 80s\/90s Honda\/Acura applications and some newer models. If you've got an EF Civic, DA Integra, BB Prelude, or EF CRX, you need Type-F. 10th gen Civics (2016-2021), FK8 Type R (expansion tank), FL5 Type R, and DE5 Integra Type S also use Type-F.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHybrid Racing 1.3 bar high-pressure radiator cap\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAvailable in Type-D or Type-F (select correct style for your application)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1.3 bar (19 PSI) pressure rating vs 1.1 bar (16 PSI) factory cap\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eRaises coolant boiling point for better cooling performance\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCNC-machined aluminum construction\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAnodized finish (multiple colors available)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eType-D Fitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1990-1994 Honda Accord\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1992-2015 Honda Civic (EG, EK, EP3, FG, FB)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2022+ Honda Civic Si\/Sport\/EX (11th gen)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1993-1997 Honda Civic del Sol\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2008 Honda Element\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2007-2008 Honda Fit\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2000-2009 Honda S2000 (AP1, AP2)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra (DC)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2023+ Acura Integra Base\/A-Spec (DE5)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX (DC5)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eType-F Fitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1988-1991 Honda Civic (EF)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2016-2021 Honda Civic (10th gen, FC\/FK)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2017-2021 Honda Civic Type R FK8 (expansion tank)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2023+ Honda Civic Type R FL5 (expansion tank)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1988-1991 Honda CRX (EF)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1992-2001 Honda Prelude (BB)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1990-1993 Acura Integra (DA)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2024+ Acura Integra Type S (DE5)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Make sure you order the correct cap style for your application. Type-D and Type-F are physically different and they're not interchangeable. If you order the wrong style, it won't fit your radiator neck and you'll have to return it and order the correct one. Check your chassis and year in the fitment list above before you order. Inspect your radiator neck for cracks or damage before you install a new cap. If your radiator neck's cracked, the cap won't seal properly and you'll leak coolant.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Hybrid Racing","offers":[{"title":"Type F","offer_id":48025834324264,"sku":"HYB-RAC-01-04","price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Type D","offer_id":48025834357032,"sku":"HYB-RAC-01-03","price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/hybrid-racing-performance-radi_7b91.jpg?v=1774284196"},{"product_id":"hybrid-racing-titanium-shift-rod","title":"Hybrid Racing Titanium Shift Rod","description":"\u003ch3\u003eHybrid Racing Titanium Shift Rod\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWant your Hybrid Racing shifter to look way cooler? Our titanium shift rod replaces the stainless steel shift rod on our short shifters. It's machined to the exact same specs as our stainless rod, so it fits and functions exactly the same. The only difference is it's titanium instead of stainless, so it's got that heat-treated titanium color. If you're building a clean interior or you just want your shifter to look better, the titanium rod's an easy upgrade. It doesn't make your shifter work any better. It just looks way better!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's What You're Getting\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're getting a titanium shift rod that bolts directly into our Hybrid Racing short shifters. Unbolt your stainless rod, bolt the titanium rod in, and you're done. The titanium's got that signature heat-treated finish that changes color based on how it was finished. Each rod's hand-finished, so no two rods look exactly the same. Some are more blue, some are more gold, some are more purple. That's normal for titanium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eThree Different Lengths for Different Shifters\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe make the titanium shift rod in three lengths: 110mm (short), 140mm (medium), and 170mm (long). The length you need depends on which Hybrid Racing shifter you're running. 110mm fits our 2006-2011 Civic short shifter. 140mm fits our 2017-2020 Civic short shifter, CR-Z shifter, Fit shifter, and TSX shifter. 170mm fits our RSX short shifter and B\/D series short shifter. Though all the lengths will work on other shifters to help tailor your shifting experience.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eDoes NOT Fit K-Swap Shifters\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe titanium shift rod doesn't fit our K-swap shifters, HYB-SAS-01-06 and HYB-SAS-01-11. It only fits our chassis-specific short shifters. If you're running one of our K-swap shifters, this rod won't work. Don't order it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHybrid Racing titanium shift rod (shift rod only, shifter NOT included)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMachined from titanium with heat-treated finish\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSame specs as our stainless steel shift rod\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHand-finished (color\/finish varies between rods)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAvailable in three lengths: 110mm (short), 140mm (medium), 170mm (long)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eShift Rod Lengths\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e110mm (Short)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e140mm (Medium)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e170mm (Long)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"Hybrid Racing","offers":[{"title":"110mm","offer_id":48025992167720,"sku":"HYB-ROD-01-16","price":69.98,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"140mm","offer_id":48025992200488,"sku":"HYB-ROD-01-06","price":79.98,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"170mm","offer_id":48025992233256,"sku":"HYB-ROD-01-04","price":79.98,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/1500_x4_7029be4c-7a7b-42e2-920a-132d2345e917.png?v=1773887825"},{"product_id":"hybrid-racing-ep3-short-shifter-assembly","title":"Hybrid Racing Short Shifter for 02-05 Civic Si\/03-11 Element","description":"\n\u003cp\u003eNow available in our signature Dust Black anodized finish! \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe shifter's frame is constructed from TIG-welded, powder coated, 1000 Series steel. The upper, lower, and side rocker assemblies are made from a single piece of 6061 aluminum, and feature custom sealed ball bearings to reduce friction and require less physical effort to row through gears. Shift throw adjustment is achieved using two threaded cable attachment pins allowing you to dial in the exact throw that suits your shifting style. Each attachment pin features a wear-resistant Delrin pivot cap for sturdy, quiet operation. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eOur new V2 design uses a heavy-duty internal spring replacing the torsion centering spring for better-centering action and a more direct feel. The lower pivot ball is now made of stainless steel which sits inside of a durable Delrin cup. The side pivot arm now comes with a heavy-duty stainless spherical bearing for increased performance and smoothness. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe front\/back throw and left\/right throw can be adjusted independently. At the highest setting, you can expect a 20% reduction in throw, and at the lowest setting up to a 50% reduction in throw.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith its superior construction, adjustability, and unmatched testing and performance our new V2 shifter takes the best shifter one step further! \u003c\/p\u003e\n ","brand":"Hybrid Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48026013303080,"sku":"HYB-SAS-01-26","price":459.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/HYB-SAS-01-26_1_ddf7203a-ae4f-4024-8b20-14c55919e41e.jpg?v=1738349284"},{"product_id":"acura-rdx-410cc-injectors","title":"Acura RDX 410cc Injectors w\/ Clips Upgrade for K-Series","description":"\u003ch3\u003eAcura RDX 410cc Injector Upgrade – OEM 410cc Fuel Injectors for K-Series Power Builds\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nIf you're pushing your K-Series harder than stock, these Acura RDX 410cc fuel injectors are the go-to Honda injectors upgrade. They’re genuine RDX OEM injectors that drop into most K20\/K24 setups and K-swaps and give you the fuel headroom you need without turning your car into a nightmare to tune or drive.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nCompared to standard Honda injectors, these Acura 410cc fuel injectors flow more, have a cleaner spray pattern, and give more consistent fueling at both low pulse width and WOT. That means better atomization, stronger midrange, and sharper throttle response. These Acura K-Series high flow injectors work really well on cars with cams, intake, header, exhaust, or full bolt-on packages, while still keeping idle nice and stable. Each kit includes four RDX OEM injectors plus RDX injector clips included for plug-and-play on typical k series harnesses, so you’re not chasing wiring or adapters.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eGenuine RDX OEM injectors (410cc) for Acura K-Series and Honda K-Series reliability\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eImproved spray pattern for cleaner burn, stronger throttle response, and smoother part-throttle\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eGreat match for K-Series performance injectors needs on NA K20\/K24 with bolt-ons or mild cams\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eRDX injectors with clips – plug-and-play installation with included injector clips\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMaintains stock-like idle quality and street manners when properly tuned\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eProven RDX injectors performance upgrade for K-swaps, daily-driven street cars, and bolt-on builds\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat’s Included\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFour (4) Genuine Acura RDX 410cc Fuel Injectors – modified K-Series injectors not required, these drop in\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFour (4) RDX injector clips with pins – plug-and-play ready on most K-Series harnesses\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eVehicle Compatibility\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDirect K-Series injector upgrade for the following models and any K-swap using these engines:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2007–2010 Acura CSX Type S\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2007–2012 Acura RDX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002–2006 Acura RSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004–2008 Acura TSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003–2007 Honda Accord (K24)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002–2005 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2006–2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002–2006 Honda CR-V\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003–2011 Honda Element\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nIf you’re piecing together a K-Series injector upgrade and want something that just works, these Acura RDX K-Series injectors are hard to argue with. You get high-flow Acura injectors that support real power on NA builds, stay consistent under abuse, and keep drivability in check. We run these same K-Series performance injectors on our own cars, and they’ve earned their reputation across the K community for a reason.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48026058883368,"sku":"HYB-RDX-01-03","price":449.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/HYB-RDX-01-03_5crop.jpg?v=1765424153"},{"product_id":"oem-honda-acura-rsx-s-oil-pump","title":"Acura RSX Type S PRB Oil Pump 15100-PRB-A01","description":"\u003ch3\u003eHybrid Racing K20A2 RSX Type S Oil Pump (Cut for K24) - K Series Swap\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're building a K24 or swapping one and you need an oil pump that doesn't rob horsepower and actually maintains pressure at high RPM. The stock K24 oil pump's heavy. It's got balance shafts that suck up 10-15 hp just spinning around doing nothing. The pump also struggles to maintain oil pressure when you're running 8000+ RPM. The K20A2 oil pump from the RSX Type S doesn't have balance shafts. It's lighter. It flows better. It holds pressure at high RPM. The problem's the K20A2 pump doesn't bolt directly to a K24 block without modifications. Hybrid Racing's cut K20A2 oil pump solves that. We've machined the pump so it clears the K24 block and installs without grinding or custom work. You're bolting it on with the correct windage tray, chain, tensioner, and hardware. No balance shaft drag. Better oil pressure. More power. This is what you install when you're building a high-RPM K24 and you're done losing power to the stock pump.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's Why the Stock K24 Oil Pump Kills Power\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe stock K24 oil pump uses balance shafts to smooth out engine vibration. The shafts spin at twice engine speed. They're heavy. They're parasitic. You're losing 10-15 hp at the wheels just to spin those shafts around. That's power you're making but you're not putting to the ground. The stock K24 pump also struggles to maintain oil pressure at high RPM. If you're building a K24 that revs to 8000-8500 RPM or higher, the stock pump can't keep up. Oil pressure drops. Bearings suffer. The K20A2 oil pump from the RSX Type S doesn't have balance shafts. It's a simpler pump. It's lighter. It flows better. It maintains pressure at high RPM because it's designed for the K20A2 which revs higher than the K24. The K20A2 pump's the standard upgrade for built K24 engines. The problem's it doesn't bolt to a K24 block without modifications. You have to cut the pump to clear the K24 block casting. Hybrid Racing's done that work for you. The pump's already cut and ready to install.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePre-Cut for K24 Installation - No Grinding Required\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe K20A2 oil pump interferes with the K24 block casting. You can't just bolt it on. You have to remove material from the pump housing so it clears the block. Most people use a die grinder or a belt sander and remove material until it fits. That works but it's time-consuming and you're eyeballing the clearance. Hybrid Racing's pre-cut this pump for you. We've machined the interference area so the pump clears the K24 block and bolts up correctly. You're not grinding. You're not test-fitting and removing more material. You're installing the pump with the correct windage tray, chain, tensioner, and hardware. It fits. This is the pump you order when you're swapping a K24 and you don't want to spend an afternoon grinding an oil pump.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eRequires K20A2-Specific Parts for Installation\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou can't use the stock K24 windage tray, chain, tensioner, or hardware with the K20A2 pump. The K20A2 pump requires K20A2-specific parts. You need the K20A2 windage tray (11221-PNC-000), windage tray bolts (95701-06014-08, need six), K20A2 oil pump chain (13441-PCX-004), K20A2 chain guide (13460-PNC-004), K20A2 chain tensioner (13450-RAA-A02), and K20A2 oil pump hardware (three different bolts with part numbers 95701-06025-08, 95701-08050-08, and 95701-08075-08). That's a lot of parts to track down individually. Hybrid Racing offers a complete installation kit that includes everything except the pump. Order the pump and the installation kit and you've got everything you need. If you're sourcing the parts yourself, make sure you're getting K20A2 parts and not K20Z1 or K24 parts. The part numbers are different and they don't interchange.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHybrid Racing pre-cut K20A2 oil pump (Honda OEM part 15100-PRB-A01)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePre-machined for K24 block clearance (no grinding required)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eNo balance shafts (eliminates 10-15 hp parasitic loss)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBetter oil pressure at high RPM (designed for high-revving K20A2)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDirect bolt-in with correct K20A2 windage tray, chain, tensioner, and hardware\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eOEM Honda quality\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCut and prepared by Hybrid Racing\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eRequired Parts for Installation (Not Included)\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-k20a2-oil-pump-baffle-plate-11221-pnc-000?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=a3865f32a\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eK20A2 windage tray: 11221-PNC-000\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWindage tray bolts (x6): 95701-06014-08\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-k20a2-oil-pump-chain-13441-pcx-004?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=f5be48e24\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eK20A2 oil pump chain: 13441-PCX-004\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-k20a2-oil-pump-chain-guide-13460-pnc-004?_pos=2\u0026amp;_sid=f5be48e24\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eK20A2 chain guide: 13460-PNC-004\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-k20k24-oil-chain-tensioner?_pos=3\u0026amp;_sid=f5be48e24\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eK20A2 chain tensioner: 13450-RAA-A02\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20A2 oil pump hardware: 95701-06025-08 (x1), 95701-08050-08 (x1), 95701-08075-08 (x1)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eOr purchase \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/hybrid-racing-k20a2-oil-pump-installation-kit?_pos=4\u0026amp;_sid=e7b3b6225\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eHybrid Racing K20A2 Oil Pump Installation Kit\u003c\/a\u003e (includes all parts above)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These Builds\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24 engine builds (all variants: K24A, K24A2, K24Z, K24W)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24 swaps into any chassis (Civic, Integra, CRX, etc.)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHigh-RPM K24 builds (8000+ RPM)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Pre-cut K20A2 oil pump for K24 installation (Honda OEM part 15100-PRB-A01 machined by Hybrid Racing for K24 block clearance). Eliminates balance shafts (saves 10-15 whp parasitic loss from stock K24 pump). Improves oil pressure at high RPM (K20A2 pump designed for higher-revving engine than K24). Requires K20A2-specific installation parts (windage tray, chain, tensioner, hardware - NOT included with pump, sold separately or as complete installation kit). Do NOT use K24 windage tray, chain, or hardware (parts are not interchangeable). Refer to factory service manual for installation procedure and torque specs. Common upgrade for built K24 engines and K24 swaps. Pre-cut by Hybrid Racing (no grinding or custom fitment required). Direct bolt-in with correct K20A2 parts. Made by Hybrid Racing.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"No","offer_id":48026060390696,"sku":"OHA-15100-PRB-A01","price":396.55,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Yes","offer_id":51828398653736,"sku":"HYB-OLP-01-05","price":499.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/OHA-15100-PRB-A01_1.png?v=1727748098"},{"product_id":"oem-k-series-oilfilter","title":"Honda K Series Oil Filter 15400-RTA-003","description":"\u003ch3\u003eHonda K Series Oil Filter - 15400-RTA-003\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Doing an oil change and need a filter that actually fits? 15400-RTA-003 is the current OEM filter for a\n  huge chunk of the Honda and Acura lineup, and it's the one you want on the shelf. It threads onto the\n  block and catches the metal shavings, carbon, and grit that build up in your oil as it cycles through\n  the engine. Let a filter go too long and it can't keep up anymore, so all that junk starts circulating\n  through your bearings instead of getting trapped. Throw a fresh one in at every oil change and you're\n  keeping your oil clean and your engine happy. Grab a single for this oil change, or grab the 6-pack so\n  you're not back at the parts store every three months.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eSame Filter, New Number, New Maker\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  If you've bought this filter before, here's what changed. Honda discontinued the old 15400-PLM-A01, so\n  15400-RTA-003 is the number you'll order now. The part that matters most isn't the number, it's who\n  builds it. The old PLM filter came from Fram, and the RTA filter comes from Mahle, the Mahle Tennex unit\n  built in Japan that Honda runs on the line. Same threads, same fit, same job, just a different name on\n  the can. If you've been running 15400-PT7-005, that one's gone too, and RTA-003 is what you'll want\n  instead. Whatever old number you used to ask for at the counter, this is your filter now, so don't let\n  the new label throw you off.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat This Little Can Is Actually Doing\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Your oil's picking up metal off normal wear, soot from combustion, and dirt that sneaks past the air\n  filter, and all of that stays suspended in the oil until it hits this filter. Inside, there's a pleated\n  paper element the oil pushes through. The paper grabs the junk and lets clean oil through to your\n  bearings, cams, and crank. Once that paper fills up, the bypass valve pops open and your oil starts\n  flowing around the filter instead of through it. That's the part people don't think about: a clogged\n  filter doesn't mean no oil, it means unfiltered oil, and you won't see it happening. Swap the filter\n  every oil change and you never have to think about it.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy Bother With OEM\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  You can grab a filter off the shelf at any parts store for half the price, and plenty of them do the\n  job fine. The catch is the cheap paper inside doesn't catch the small stuff as well, and it breaks down\n  faster. The OEM filter is built to the same spec Honda designed the engine around, so it catches what it\n  needs to and lasts the whole interval. Run a cheap filter on a short 3,000-mile interval and you're\n  probably fine. Push it to 5k or 7k like a lot of people do with synthetic, and that cheap paper can\n  start breaking down before your next change, or the bypass valve sticks open. Either way, you're running\n  dirty oil and you don't know it. The OEM filter costs a couple bucks more and it's built to the spec your\n  car came with from the factory, which is worth it if you're chasing 200k miles and beyond.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eOne Filter, A Lot Of Old Numbers\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Honda's used a handful of different part numbers for this filter over the years, depending on the model\n  and the year it was built. RTA-003 replaces 15400-P0H-305, 15400-PLC-003, 15400-PLC-004, 15400-PLM-A01,\n  15400-PT7-005, 15400-RBA-F01, and 15400-RTA-004. They're all the same filter, just labeled differently\n  for different applications. So if your Honda or Acura originally called for any of those, you don't\n  need to cross-reference anything. This is your filter.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBuy One Or Stock Up\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  If you just need one for today, grab a single. If you're doing your own oil changes regularly, the\n  6-pack's the move. You'll have a filter ready every time without a parts run, and it works out cheaper\n  per filter too. Got more than one Honda in the driveway, or you're the one your buddies call when they\n  need an oil change? The 6-pack keeps you stocked and saves you the trip.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eGenuine Honda OEM oil filter (part number 15400-RTA-003)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBuilt by Mahle (Mahle Tennex), made in Japan\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFilters your oil to catch metal particles, carbon, and dirt\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePleated paper element with a bypass valve\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDirect replacement for the discontinued PLM-A01 and PT7-005, plus several other old numbers\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSame filter spec your engine runs from the factory\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAvailable individually or as a 6-pack\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits Your Car\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2013-2022 Acura ILX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2023-2026 Acura Integra Base\/ASpec\/Type S\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2026 Acura MDX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2007-2025 Acura RDX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2005-2012 Acura RL\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2014-2020 Acura RLX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Base\/Type S\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2014 Acura TL\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2015-2025 Acura TLX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2014 Acura TSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2010-2013 Acura ZDX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1984-2025 Honda Accord\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1988-2005 Honda Civic (D Series)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2006-2015 Honda Civic (R Series)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2016-2021 Honda Civic EX\/Sport\/Si\/Type R\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2022-2026 Honda Civic EX\/Sport\/Si\/Type R\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1997-2026 Honda CR-V\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2011-2016 Honda CR-Z\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2010-2015 Honda Crosstour\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1988-1991 Honda CRX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1993-1997 Honda Del Sol\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2007-2020 Honda Fit\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2016-2026 Honda HR-V\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2000-2022 Honda Insight\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1995-2026 Honda Odyssey\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2019-2026 Honda Passport\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2025 Honda Pilot\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1983-2001 Honda Prelude\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2026 Honda Prelude\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2006-2026 Honda Ridgeline\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eReplaces These Part Numbers\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e15400-P0H-305\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e15400-PLC-003\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e15400-PLC-004\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e15400-PLM-A01\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e15400-PT7-005\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e15400-RBA-F01\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e15400-RTA-004\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Note: Change your oil filter every time you change your oil, don't try to squeeze a second interval out\n  of one. The paper breaks down and stops catching what it should. When you install it, wipe a little oil\n  on the gasket, spin it on, and hand-tighten once the gasket touches the block. Don't grab a filter\n  wrench for this, that's how you crush the gasket and end up with a leak. Snug by hand is all it needs.\n  Once the oil's in and the filter's on, fire up the engine, let it idle a minute, and look around the\n  filter for drips. Got a small leak? Shut it off and tighten it a little more, don't crank on it. Still\n  leaking after that? Check the gasket for damage or grit on the sealing surface, then reseat it. As for\n  intervals, match it to how you drive: city and short trips, 5k is a safe bet; mostly highway with good\n  synthetic, 7k to 8k works fine. Just don't stretch it past 10k, even on synthetic, the oil breaks down\n  and the filter fills up either way. Keep up on both and your engine will thank you for it.\n\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"6 Pack","offer_id":51730713936168,"sku":"OHA-OIL-PLM-6-PACK","price":65.94,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Single","offer_id":51976871051560,"sku":"OHA-15400-RTA-003","price":10.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/15400-PLM-A02-001-SQ.jpg?v=1718424630"},{"product_id":"oem-honda-vtec-solenoid-gasket","title":"Honda VTEC Solenoid Gasket 15815-RAA-A02","description":"This is a genuine Honda VTEC Solenoid Gasket for K20 and K24 engines from 2002-2015 (part number 15815-RAA-A02). These gaskets can harden over time which results in leaks or potential loss of oil pressure. We recommend OEM Honda gaskets as they are the best quality.\u003cbr\u003e","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48026072154408,"sku":"OHA-15815-RAA-A02","price":6.18,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/OHA-15815-RAA-A02_1.jpg?v=1731911629"},{"product_id":"idle-air-control-valve-gasket-iacv","title":"Honda Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) Gasket 16456-PND-A01","description":"\u003cdiv\u003eThis IACV gasket (part number 16456-PND-A01) is a genuine OEM Honda part. It is used in the K20A\/A2\/A3 throttle bodies from 2002-2006 RSX DC5 \u0026amp; Civic Si EP3. \u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003eThis gasket is used to seal the air control valve and prevent air from leaking. It can wear out over time and cause air to leak, resulting in poor engine performance or increased fuel consumption.\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003eIf you are experiencing idle problems, it may be time to replace this gasket. We recommend using this genuine OEM Honda parts to ensure proper fit and function.\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48026074284328,"sku":"OHA-16456-PND-A01","price":14.25,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/OHA-16456-PND-A01_1.jpg?v=1736542251"},{"product_id":"hondabond-rtv-liquid-gasket","title":"Hondabond High Temperature RTV Liquid Gasket 08718-0004","description":"\u003ch3\u003eHonda Hondabond High Temperature RTV Liquid Gasket\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHonda Hondabond High Temperature RTV Liquid Gasket\u003c\/strong\u003e is the trusted OEM sealing solution designed for critical engine components where a solid gasket isn’t required. Made by Honda for precision applications, Hondabond provides a \u003cstrong\u003enon-corrosive, high-temp silicone seal\u003c\/strong\u003e ideal for cam plugs, oil pans, valve covers, and other vital surfaces. Unlike other generic sealants, Hondabond’s advanced formula will not damage aluminum, ensuring long-lasting durability and peace of mind for both daily drivers and high-performance builds.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eKey Features \u0026amp; Benefits\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh-Temperature Performance:\u003c\/strong\u003e Withstands extreme heat and pressure, perfect for valve cover gaskets, oil pans, and cam plugs.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNon-Corrosive Formula:\u003c\/strong\u003e Safe for aluminum components, preventing long-term wear and corrosion.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOEM Honda Quality:\u003c\/strong\u003e Genuine Honda product (Part Numbers: OHA-08718-0004 \/ 08718-0004) trusted by enthusiasts and professionals.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eConsistent Cure Time:\u003c\/strong\u003e Surface sets in 60 minutes, rubberizes in 15–16 hours, and fully cures in about 3 days.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVersatile Applications:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ideal for oil pans, valve covers, cam plugs, and other gasket-free sealing surfaces.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy Enthusiasts Trust Hondabond\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\nHonda enthusiasts and performance builders prefer \u003cstrong\u003eHondabond over other gasket makers like Permatex\u003c\/strong\u003e because of its proven reliability, clean application, and ability to withstand track-day abuse. Commonly used across popular Honda chassis (EF, EG, EK, DC2, and beyond), Hondabond is known for keeping engines leak-free under extreme conditions.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHow to Use Hondabond\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003col\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eThoroughly clean the mating surfaces, removing all oil, dirt, and moisture.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eApply a thin, even layer of Hondabond using a brush or putty knife.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWait approximately one minute, then join the surfaces together.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eTorque fasteners as needed within a few minutes of application.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eExpel air from the tube before closing to prevent premature curing inside the container.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ol\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eDrying \u0026amp; Curing Times\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSurface Dry:\u003c\/strong\u003e ~60 minutes\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eRubberized Set:\u003c\/strong\u003e 15–16 hours\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFull Cure:\u003c\/strong\u003e ~3 days\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eRemoving Hondabond\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\nOld Hondabond can be removed with gasket remover, nail gel fluid, or solvents such as petrol, acetone, or methylated spirits. Use a plastic scourer to gently remove residue without scratching metal surfaces.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCommon Uses\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eOil pan sealing\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eValve cover gaskets\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCam plug sealing\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eOther non-gasket mating surfaces\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQ: What is Hondabond?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\nA: A high-temperature, non-corrosive RTV silicone liquid gasket designed by Honda for precision sealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQ: Who makes Hondabond?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\nA: Honda manufactures Hondabond as part of its OEM product line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQ: How long does Hondabond take to dry?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\nA: Surface sets in ~60 minutes. For best results, allow 15–16 hours before heavy use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQ: How long to fully cure?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\nA: Complete curing takes about 3 days, depending on application thickness and humidity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQ: Can I use Hondabond for an oil pan?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\nA: Yes. Apply a thin, continuous bead on the clean surface before installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQ: How do I remove old Hondabond?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\nA: Use solvents like acetone or petrol and a non-abrasive scrubber.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQ: Where can I buy Hondabond?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\nA: While it was once dealership-only, it is now available through performance shops and online retailers.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\nWhether you’re performing routine maintenance or building a high-performance engine, \u003cstrong\u003eHonda Hondabond High Temperature RTV Gasket Maker\u003c\/strong\u003e is the industry standard for precision sealing. With unmatched OEM quality and proven results, Hondabond is the trusted choice for keeping engines leak-free and reliable.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48026074906920,"sku":"OHA-08718-0004","price":13.49,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/OHA-08718-0004_1.jpg?v=1767981194"},{"product_id":"honda-genuine-manual-transmission-fluid","title":"Honda Genuine Manual Transmission Fluid 08798-9031","description":"\u003ch3\u003eHonda Genuine Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) - Part #08798-9031\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're changing the fluid in your Honda or Acura manual transmission, run the real stuff. This is Honda Genuine Manual Transmission Fluid, part number 08798-9031, the exact MTF Honda engineered for their own gearboxes. It's not a \"compatible\" aftermarket fluid and it's not a \"meets spec\" universal gear oil. Honda built their manual transmissions around a specific fluid chemistry, and they formulated this MTF to their own proprietary viscosity and additive spec that the generic stuff just can't match. So when you pour this in, you're putting in exactly what your transmission was designed to run. Your synchros shift clean, your gears stay protected, and you're not gambling on whether some universal fluid is close enough. Whether you're doing a routine fluid change on your daily, refreshing a B-series box, or filling up after a K-swap, this is the correct fluid with zero guesswork.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy You Don't Want To Cheap Out With Universal Fluid\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHere's the thing a lot of people learn the hard way. Your Honda manual transmission is engineered around this specific fluid, and running something else, even a fluid with \"compatible\" printed right on the bottle, can cost you. The wrong chemistry leads to notchy, crunchy shifts, and over time it wears your synchros and can damage your bearings. None of the universal MTFs on the market actually match Honda's factory spec, no matter what the label claims. That's a lot of money in transmission damage to save a few bucks on fluid. Running the genuine 08798-9031 keeps your synchros engaging smooth and protects the transmission to the tolerances Honda's engineers built it for. On a gearbox you actually care about, this isn't where you experiment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat It Fits\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis MTF goes in a huge range of Honda and Acura manual transmissions, so odds are good it's what your car needs. That covers the Civic across the EG, EK, EP3, and FD2 chassis with their D-series and K-series gearboxes, Acura Integra DC2 and DC5 with B-series and K20A3 transmissions, and the RSX Type-S DC5 with the K20A2\/K20Z1 6-speed. It's also the fluid for the S2000 AP1 and AP2 close-ratio 6-speed, 6th and 7th gen Accord F-series manuals, 1st and 2nd gen CR-V manual variants, the Element 5-speed, and the Acura TSX CL9 K24 6-speed. That said, transmissions vary by model and year, so always confirm your specific transmission code against your owner's manual or your dealer before you service it. Better to check than to guess.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eSold By The Quart\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis comes one quart (946ml) per bottle, so grab enough to fill your transmission's capacity plus a little extra. Hybrid Racing keeps this fluid in stock and ships it fast, so you're not waiting around on the one thing standing between you and finishing your service. Whether it's a maintenance change, a rebuild fill, or topping off after a swap, you're getting the genuine Honda fluid your transmission wants.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda Genuine Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eOEM part number 08798-9031 (also listed as 087989031)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1 quart (946ml) per bottle\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda factory proprietary MTF spec\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eThe exact fluid Honda engineered for their manual transmissions\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eKeeps synchros shifting clean and protects the gearbox\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFor Honda and Acura manual transmissions requiring Honda Genuine MTF\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat It Fits\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the manual transmission fluid for just about every manual-equipped Honda and Acura, so odds are it's exactly what your car needs. On the Civic and CRX side that covers the EF, EG, EH, EJ, EK, EM, ES, EP3, FA5, FG2, and FD2 chassis running D-series, B-series, and K-series gearboxes, including every Civic Si generation. It's the fluid for the Integra and Acura Integra DA, DB, DC2, and DC5 with B-series and K20 transmissions, the Acura RSX DC5 including the Type-S K20A2\/K20Z1 6-speed, and the legendary S2000 AP1 and AP2 with the F20C\/F22C close-ratio 6-speed. It also goes in the Del Sol (EG\/EH\/EJ), the Prelude (BB chassis), the CR-X, the Fit (GD\/GE\/GK), the CRZ, the 6th through 8th gen Accord F-series and K24 manuals, the 1st and 2nd gen CR-V manual variants, the Element 5-speed, the Acura TSX CL9 and CU2 K24 6-speed, the Acura CL, the Acura TL 6-speed, and even the NSX. That said, transmissions vary by model and year, so always confirm your specific transmission code against your owner's manual or your dealer before you service it. Better to check than to guess.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCommon Applications\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda Civic \/ Civic Si (EF, EG, EH, EJ, EK, EM, ES, EP3, FA5, FG2, FD2) - D-series, B-series, and K-series transmissions\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda CRX \/ Del Sol (EF, EG, EH, EJ) - manual transmissions\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda\/Acura Integra (DA, DB, DC2, DC5) - B-series and K20 transmissions\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAcura RSX \/ RSX Type-S (DC5) - K20A2\/K20Z1 6-speed\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda S2000 (AP1, AP2) - F20C\/F22C close-ratio 6-speed\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda Prelude (BB chassis) - manual transmissions\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda Fit (GD, GE, GK) - 5-speed and 6-speed manual\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda CR-Z - 6-speed manual\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda Accord (6th, 7th, 8th gen) - F-series and K24 manual\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda CR-V (1st and 2nd gen) - manual variants\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda Element - 5-speed manual\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAcura TSX (CL9, CU2) - K24 6-speed manual\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAcura CL \/ TL - manual transmissions\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAcura NSX - manual transmission\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Honda Genuine Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF), OEM part number 08798-9031 (also listed as 087989031). The exact factory-formulated fluid for Honda and Acura manual transmissions, built to Honda's proprietary viscosity and additive spec - not a universal or \"meets spec\" substitute. Running non-Honda MTF can cause notchy shifts, synchro wear, and bearing damage over time. 1 quart (946ml) per bottle. Common applications: Honda Civic (EG\/EK\/EP3\/FD2 D-series and K-series), Honda\/Acura Integra (DC2\/DC5 B-series and K20), Acura RSX Type-S (DC5 K20A2\/K20Z1 6-speed), Honda S2000 (AP1\/AP2 F20C\/F22C 6-speed), Honda Accord (6th\/7th gen F-series), Honda CR-V (1st\/2nd gen manual), Honda Element (5-speed), Acura TSX (CL9 K24 6-speed). Always confirm your specific transmission code and model year against your owner's manual or dealer before servicing. One quart per order.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48027622801704,"sku":"OHA-08798-9031","price":9.2,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/OHA-08798-9031-1.jpg?v=1718424803"},{"product_id":"circuit-hero-magnetic-oil-drain-plug-honda","title":"Circuit Hero Magnetic Oil Drain Plug - Honda","description":"Circuit Hero magnetic drain plugs are a must for performance enthusiasts and do-it-yourself fluid changers. The powerful, magnetic stems attract metal shavings that circulate in the engine’s oil and transmission not trapped by the oil filter.  \u003cspan style=\"background-color: var(--rz-editor-content-background-color); color: var(--bs-body-color); font-size: var(--bs-body-font-size); font-weight: var(--bs-body-font-weight); text-align: var(--bs-body-text-align);\"\u003eCircuit Hero magnetic drain plugs offer additional peace of mind in between oil changes, are direct-fit replacements, and serve as inexpensive engine and transmission insurance. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\n\nAvailable in:\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1 x magnetic Engine oil pan drain bolt - Long Magnet\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1 x magnetic Transmission oil drain bolt - Short Magnet\n\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Circuit Hero","offers":[{"title":"Engine","offer_id":48027634827560,"sku":"CH-DP-L","price":28.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Transmission","offer_id":48027634860328,"sku":"CH-DP-S","price":28.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Engine and Transmission","offer_id":48027634893096,"sku":"CH-DP-LS","price":48.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/CH-DP-L-TI_5crop.jpg?v=1735315643"},{"product_id":"speedfactory-billet-battery-tie-down-honda-acura","title":"SpeedFactory Billet Battery Tie Down for Honda\/Acura","description":"\u003ch3\u003eSpeedFactory Racing Billet Battery Tie-Down Honda \u0026amp; Acura\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nUpgrade your engine bay with the SpeedFactory Billet Battery Tie-Down, designed to add both function and style to any Honda or Acura vehicle. This lightweight yet durable tie-down is the perfect way to secure your battery while giving your engine bay a clean, high-performance look. Whether you're building a show car or a street machine, this billet battery bracket delivers reliability and eye-catching detail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nEach unit is CNC-machined from premium 6061 billet aluminum, ensuring strength, corrosion resistance, and long-lasting performance. It’s fully compatible with OEM battery mounts and works with both full-size batteries and popular lightweight aftermarket options. With its precision fitment and high-quality machining, this upgraded tie-down helps prevent battery movement during aggressive driving—making it a smart choice for enthusiasts focused on safety and performance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nIf you're looking to enhance your engine bay appearance while adding dependable battery security, the SpeedFactory Racing Billet Battery Tie-Down is an easy, affordable upgrade that delivers premium results. A perfect match for builds that value clean aesthetics, reliability, and high-quality components.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eKey Features:\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePrecision CNC-machined from high-quality 6061 billet aluminum\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCompatible with OEM battery mounts for seamless installation\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks with full-size and lightweight aftermarket batteries\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eEnhances engine bay appearance with a clean, high-end look\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"SpeedFactory","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48027813118248,"sku":"SFR-02-086","price":29.92,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/SFR-02-086_11yc.jpg?v=1767985871"},{"product_id":"dragcartel-intake-exhaust-port-cover-set","title":"Drag Cartel Intake and Exhaust Port Cover Set for K Series","description":"\u003ch3\u003eDrag Cartel Intake\/Exhaust Port Covers - Honda\/Acura K Series\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCleaning your K series valvetrain or building your head? Drag Cartel makes billet aluminum port covers that seal your intake and exhaust ports while you're working on the head. The factory port covers are cheap plastic caps that fall off or crack. These billet aluminum covers are machined from 8620 aluminum and hard anodized black. They seal the ports so debris, dirt, or tools don't fall into your cylinders when you're working on the valvetrain. If you're doing a valve job, cam swap, or head rebuild, you need port covers to protect your cylinders.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy You Need Port Covers\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you're working on your valvetrain with the head still on the motor, your intake and exhaust ports are open to the cylinders. If you drop a valve spring retainer, a valve keeper, or a tool into an open port, it falls straight into the cylinder. Once something falls into the cylinder, you've got to pull the head to get it out. Port covers seal the ports so nothing falls in. They also keep dirt and debris out of your cylinders while you're working. If you're cleaning valves or replacing valve stem seals with the head on the car, port covers are mandatory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBillet Aluminum, Not Cheap Plastic\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrag Cartel machines these port covers from 8620 billet aluminum. They're not cheap plastic caps that fall off when you bump them. The aluminum covers fit tight and they stay in place while you're working. They're hard anodized black, which protects them from corrosion and makes them look clean. The hard anodizing also makes the aluminum more durable so the covers don't get dinged up or scratched.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eSet of Two: Intake and Exhaust\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're getting two port covers: one for the intake side and one for the exhaust side. K series heads have separate intake and exhaust port openings, so you need both covers to seal all the ports. Install the covers over the ports whenever you're working on the valvetrain with the head on the motor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDrag Cartel intake\/exhaust port cover set\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1x intake port cover\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1x exhaust port cover\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMachined from 8620 billet aluminum\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHard anodized black finish\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatible Engines\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20A2, K20A3 (RSX, Civic Si)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20Z1, K20Z3 (RSX, Civic Si)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24A1, K24A2, K24A4, K24A8 (TSX, Accord, CR-V, Element)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits Your Car\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX (K20A2, K20A3, K20Z1)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX (K24A2)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord (K24A4, K24A8)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2011 Honda Civic Si (K20A3, K20Z3)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V (K24A1)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element (K24A4, K24A8)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Use these port covers any time you're working on your motor or planning to store the engine without an intake or exhaust manifold. \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Drag Cartel Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48027866038568,"sku":"DCR-DC-PRT-COV","price":139.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/DCR-DC-PRT-COV_buxq.jpg?v=1772752493"},{"product_id":"dragcartel-mod-crank-timing-gear-kseries","title":"Drag Cartel K-Series Modified Crank Timing Gear","description":"Drag Cartel K-Series Modified Crank Timing Gears are high-quality, high-performance replacement gears designed to improve the durability of the stock timing gears. Factory K-Series Timing Chain Gears have a higher risk of the timing chain gear breaking its positioning dowel pin, causing the engine to lose timing and potentially cause major damage.\u003cdiv\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\u003cdiv\u003eIn top-tier motorsport, where every ounce, millisecond, and millimeter matters, if you want to be competitive, only high-quality parts will allow you to gain big power and maximize the potential of the build in a predictable and reliable fashion.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Drag Cartel Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48027874230568,"sku":"DC-MOD-TMG","price":219.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/DC-MOD-TMG_2.jpg?v=1738259275"},{"product_id":"dragcartel-scatter-shield-kseries","title":"Drag Cartel Transmission Scatter Shield for K Series","description":"\u003ch3\u003eDrag Cartel Transmission Scatter Shield - Honda\/Acura K Series\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRunning 11.49 or faster in the quarter mile? NHRA requires a transmission scatter shield at that speed. The Drag Cartel scatter shield's a one-piece steel shield that bolts between your transmission and engine block. If your transmission explodes or your flywheel comes apart at high RPM, the scatter shield contains the debris so it doesn't fly through your floor or kill you. It's made from high-tensile-strength steel and it's powder-coated black. Drag Cartel makes two versions: one with integrated coil pack mounting and one without. If you're running individual coils, get the version with coil pack mounts. If you're running a coil-on-plug setup or your coils mount somewhere else, get the version without mounts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy You Need a Scatter Shield\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you're making big power and launching hard repeatedly, your transmission and flywheel are under massive stress. Transmissions explode from broken gears or shafts, and flywheels come apart from high RPM. When a transmission explodes, gears and shards of metal fly out in every direction. When a flywheel comes apart, chunks of steel fly out at hundreds of miles per hour. Without a scatter shield, that debris goes through your floor, your firewall, or your legs. A scatter shield contains the explosion and keeps the debris from killing you or spectators. NHRA requires scatter shields on any car running 11.49 or faster in the quarter mile because the risk of catastrophic failure goes up significantly at that power level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eOne-Piece Steel Construction\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Drag Cartel scatter shield's made from one piece of high-tensile-strength steel. It's not multiple pieces bolted together. One-piece construction's stronger because there are no seams or joints that can separate under impact. The steel's thick enough to contain debris from an exploding transmission or flywheel. The shield's powder-coated black for corrosion resistance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWith or Without Coil Pack Mounting\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrag Cartel makes this scatter shield in two versions. One version's got integrated coil pack mounting brackets welded to the shield. If you're running individual coils and you need somewhere to mount them, get the version with coil pack mounts. The other version doesn't have coil pack mounts. If you're running a different ignition setup or your coils mount somewhere else, get the version without mounts. Both versions provide the same protection. The only difference is the coil mounts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDrag Cartel K series transmission scatter shield\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eOne-piece high-tensile-strength steel construction\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePowder-coated black finish\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAvailable with or without integrated coil pack mounting\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAll mounting hardware included\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eNHRA approved for 11.49 or faster\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eAvailable Versions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWith integrated coil pack mounting \u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWithout coil pack mounting\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatible Transmissions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20A, K20Z transmissions\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24A transmissions\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK-swap transmissions in drag racing applications\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e NHRA requires this scatter shield if you're running 11.49 or faster in the quarter mile. Check your sanctioning body's rules before you race. Some tracks or organizations have their own scatter shield requirements. The scatter shield bolts between your transmission bell housing and your engine block. You'll need to remove your transmission to install it. If you're building a high-horsepower K series for drag racing, install the scatter shield before you start racing. Don't wait until NHRA tech inspection fails you.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Drag Cartel Racing","offers":[{"title":"Without Coil Pack Mount","offer_id":48027885011240,"sku":"DCR-DC-K-SHLD","price":264.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"With Coil Pack Mount","offer_id":51510165176616,"sku":"DCR-K-SHLD-COILKIT","price":399.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/DCR-DC-K-SHLD_cjwq.jpg?v=1772746189"},{"product_id":"dragcartel-valve-cover-hardware-set-carbon-kseries","title":"Drag Cartel K-Series Carbon Fiber Valve Cover Hardware Sets","description":"Drag Cartel Carbon Fiber Valve Cover Hardware Set adds a unique finishing touch to any engine bay.  Manufactured from carbon fiber, these hardware sets have superior strength to weight ratio compared to stock parts. Carbon fiber is also completely corrosion resistant.Available for Honda \/ Acura K-Series engines.\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003eNote: Use factory torque specifications for installation.\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Drag Cartel Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48027894087976,"sku":"DCR-CRBN-WASHER","price":229.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/DCR-CRBN-WASHER_1.jpg?v=1767983274"},{"product_id":"dragcartel-cam-gears-adjustable-intake-kseries","title":"Drag Cartel Adjustable Intake Cam Gear for K Series","description":"\u003ch3\u003eDrag Cartel Adjustable Intake Cam Gear - Honda\/Acura K Series\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRunning aftermarket cams on your K series? You need an adjustable cam gear so you can dial in your cam timing. The factory cam gear's locked at a fixed timing position. When you install aftermarket cams, you need to advance or retard the cam timing to optimize power delivery. The Drag Cartel adjustable intake cam gear lets you adjust cam timing in one-degree increments so you can tune your power band exactly where you need it. The gear's machined from 8620 billet steel and carburized for wear resistance. If you're building a K series for power, you need adjustable cam gears.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy You Need Adjustable Cam Gears\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAftermarket cams have different lobe profiles than factory cams, which changes when your valves open and close. The factory cam gear positions the cam at a fixed timing that works for the factory cam profile. When you swap to aftermarket cams, that fixed timing doesn't optimize the new cam profile. You need to advance or retard the cam timing to match the cam's lobe profile to your engine's airflow characteristics. Advancing the cam opens the valves earlier, which usually helps low-end and mid-range power. Retarding the cam opens the valves later, which usually helps top-end power. An adjustable cam gear lets you tune cam timing on the dyno to find the optimal setting for your specific combination of cams, head work, intake, and exhaust.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eIntake Cam Gear Only\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the intake cam gear only. You're adjusting intake cam timing, not exhaust cam timing. Most K series tuners adjust the intake cam and leave the exhaust cam at the factory timing. If you want to adjust both intake and exhaust cam timing, you'll need to buy an exhaust cam gear separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003e8620 Billet Steel, Carburized for Wear Resistance\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrag Cartel machines this cam gear from 8620 billet steel. The gear's carburized to aircraft specification, which hardens the surface of the steel for extreme wear resistance. Carburizing makes the gear teeth way harder than the factory cast gear teeth, so the gear lasts longer even when you're running high spring pressures from aggressive cams. The gear's got a polished center with the Drag Cartel logo.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eDoes Not Fit K24Z7 or K24W Engines\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis cam gear fits K20 and K24 engines up through 8th gen Civic Si. It does not fit 9th gen Civic Si (K24Z7), 10th gen Civic Si (K24W), or any newer K24Z7 or K24W engines. Those engines use a different cam gear design. If you've got a 9th gen or newer Civic Si, this cam gear won't fit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDrag Cartel adjustable intake cam gear\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMachined from 8620 billet steel\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCarburized to aircraft specification for wear resistance\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePolished center with Drag Cartel logo\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eOne-degree increment adjustments\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAll mounting hardware included\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatible Engines\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20A2 (2002-2004 RSX Type-S)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20Z1 (2005-2006 RSX Type-S)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20Z3 (2006-2011 Civic Si)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24A2 (2004-2008 TSX)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24A8 (2006-2007 Accord)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eDoes NOT Fit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24Z7 (2012-2015 Civic Si, 2013-2015 ILX)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24W (2016+ Civic Si, 2016+ Accord)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits Your Car\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Type-S (K20A2, K20Z1)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX (K24A2)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2006-2007 Honda Accord (K24A8)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si (K20Z3)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Get your car tuned on a dyno after installing an adjustable cam gear. Don't just guess at cam timing settings. Drag Cartel includes recommended base cam timing settings, but you need to fine-tune from there based on your specific setup. Wrong cam timing can cost you power or cause piston-to-valve contact if you're running aggressive high-lift cams. This is the intake cam gear only. If you want to adjust exhaust cam timing too, buy the exhaust cam gear separately.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Drag Cartel Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48027926659368,"sku":"DCR-DC-IN-ADJ-CMGR","price":209.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/DCR-DC-IN-ADJ-CMGR_paur.jpg?v=1772753524"},{"product_id":"dragcartel-camgear-mod-vtc","title":"Drag Cartel Modified VTC Cam Gear for K20A\/K20Z\/K24A","description":"\u003ch3\u003eDrag Cartel Modified VTC Cam Gear - Honda\/Acura K20A, K20Z, K24A\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRunning aggressive aftermarket cams on your K series and need to limit VTC advance? The Drag Cartel modified VTC cam gear mechanically limits how far the VTC system can advance the intake cam. The factory RBB cam gear advances up to 50 degrees, which is fine for stock cams but causes piston-to-valve contact when you're running high-lift, high-duration aftermarket cams. This modified gear limits advance to 30, 35, 40, or 45 degrees depending on which one you order, which prevents the valves from hitting the pistons at high RPM.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy You Need a Modified VTC Gear\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you install aftermarket cams with more lift and duration than stock, the valve timing gets more aggressive. If the VTC system advances the intake cam too far at high RPM, the valves open earlier and lift higher than the piston can clear, and the valves smack into the pistons. That destroys the engine. A modified VTC gear mechanically stops the advance at a safe angle for your specific cam profile so the VTC system can't advance far enough to cause piston-to-valve contact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFour Advance Limit Options\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrag Cartel offers four different advance limits: 30, 35, 40, and 45 degrees. Which one you need depends on your cam profile. More aggressive cams with higher lift and longer duration need less advance, so you'd run a 30 or 35 degree gear. Milder cams can run more advance, so you'd use a 40 or 45 degree gear. Check with your cam manufacturer or tuner for the recommended advance limit for your specific cams. Drag Cartel can also custom cut a gear to a specific advance limit if you need something outside the standard options.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCNC Machined from OEM Gears\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrag Cartel starts with brand new OEM RBB VTC gears and CNC machines the stop to the advance limit you ordered. The machining exceeds OEM tolerances so the gear fits and functions exactly like the factory gear, just with a mechanical stop that prevents excessive advance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDrag Cartel modified RBB VTC cam gear\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCNC machined from new OEM RBB gear\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAvailable in 30, 35, 40, or 45 degree advance limits\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCustom advance limits available on request\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatible Engines\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20A2 (2002-2004 Acura RSX Type-S)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20Z1 (2005-2006 Acura RSX Type-S)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20Z3 (2006-2011 Honda Civic Si)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24A2 (2004-2008 Acura TSX)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eOther K20 and K24 engines using RBB cam gear\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eDoes NOT Fit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24Z7 (2012-2015 Civic Si)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24W1 (2016+ Civic)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Check with your cam manufacturer or tuner for the correct advance limit for your specific camshafts before ordering. Running too much advance with aggressive cams causes piston-to-valve contact. Custom advance limits are available if you need something other than the standard 30, 35, 40, or 45 degree options.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Drag Cartel Racing","offers":[{"title":"30","offer_id":48870406226216,"sku":"DCR-DC-VTC-CMGR-30","price":369.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"35","offer_id":48870406258984,"sku":"DCR-DC-VTC-CMGR-35","price":369.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"40","offer_id":48870406390056,"sku":"DCR-DC-VTC-CMGR-40","price":369.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"45","offer_id":48870406422824,"sku":"DCR-DC-VTC-CMGR-45","price":369.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/drag-cartel-modified-vtc-cam-g_8ev0.jpg?v=1772556630"},{"product_id":"hasport-urethane-bushing-inserts","title":"Hasport Urethane Motor Mount Bushings","description":"\u003ch3\u003eHasport Urethane Mount Bushings\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\nIf your engine feels like it’s doing the cha cha under throttle, Hasport Engine Mount Bushings fix that fast. Hasport Urethane Mount Bushings come in four durometers, 62A, 70A, 88A, and 94A, so you can pick how much movement you allow and how much vibration you’re willing to live with. Each set is sold in pairs, which makes it easy to tune mount stiffness without guessing.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nFor a street car you actually drive every day, Hasport Urethane 62A Bushings are the move. These 62A Bushings Daily Driver friendly, they keep NVH reasonable while still tightening up drivetrain motion so your shifts feel cleaner. Step up to Hasport Race Bushings 70A, also called 70A Urethane Bushings or Hasport Urethane 70A Mounts, if you run hard canyon days, time attack, or you just want the engine to stay put when you mat it. Plenty of people mix and match too, 70A Bushings Road Racing in the rear mount only is a common combo when you want more control without turning your interior into a massage chair.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nIf you’re launching on slicks or you’ve got serious torque, Hasport Urethane 88A Bushings cut engine movement way down. Think 88A Urethane Drag Racing and heavy track abuse where wheel hop and drivetrain windup become real problems. The stiffest option is Hasport 94A Urethane Mounts, also called 94A Urethane Mounts, and they’re the closest thing to solid mounts without going billet. They hit hard on 94A Urethane Power Transfer and response, but don’t pretend you won’t feel it, cabin vibration goes up.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nWe use these exact Hasport Urethane Mount Bushings on our own builds because they let you set the car up for how you drive, not how a catalog thinks you drive. Pick your durometer, and you’ll feel tighter power delivery, less drivetrain slop, and more consistent shifts, with the honest trade off that more stiffness always means more NVH.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eAvailable Durometers\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e62A Street:\u003c\/strong\u003e Hasport Urethane 62A Bushings for daily driving, with minimal NVH and solid control.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e70A Race:\u003c\/strong\u003e Hasport Race Bushings 70A, great for aggressive track use and occasional drag passes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e88A Extreme Race:\u003c\/strong\u003e Hasport Urethane 88A Bushings for big power, slicks, and hard launches.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e94A Most Extreme Race:\u003c\/strong\u003e Hasport 94A Urethane Mounts for near solid feel and maximum power transfer, with more vibration.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFour durometer choices, 62A, 70A, 88A, 94A\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eReduces engine movement for better traction and shifting feel\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUrethane construction that holds up to heat and abuse\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eEasy to tailor your setup from street to track\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"Hasport","offers":[{"title":"62A (Street)","offer_id":48028004909352,"sku":"HAS-U62A","price":16.11,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"70A (Race)","offer_id":48028004974888,"sku":"HAS-U70A","price":16.11,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"88A (Extreme Race)","offer_id":48028005007656,"sku":"HAS-U88A","price":16.11,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"94A (Most Extreme)","offer_id":48028005040424,"sku":"HAS-U94A","price":16.11,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/HAS-U62A_2_crop.jpg?v=1768337808"},{"product_id":"drag-cartel-k-series-oil-filter-baffle-vtc-strainer-assembly","title":"Drag Cartel VTC Oil Strainer Assembly for Honda K Series","description":"\u003ch3\u003eDrag Cartel K Series VTC Oil Strainer Assembly - Billet Aluminum Upgrade\u003c\/h3\u003e\n  \n  \u003cp\u003eLooking to replace your worn out VTC oil strainer with something that actually looks good under the hood? This Drag Cartel billet aluminum VTC oil strainer is a direct replacement for the factory cast piece on most K20 and K24 engines. It bolts right in where your stock strainer goes, filters oil to your VTC system just like it should, and adds some serious flair to your engine bay. The strainer comes complete with two Allen head mounting bolts and has the filter and o-ring already installed, so you can bolt it on and be done with it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n  \u003ch4\u003eMachined from Billet Aluminum\u003c\/h4\u003e\n  \n  \u003cp\u003eYour factory VTC oil strainer is a rough cast piece that gets the job done but doesn't look like much. The Drag Cartel strainer is machined from billet aluminum, so you get clean lines and a polished finish that stands out when you pop the hood. It's functional and good looking at the same time, which is what you want when you're building a clean engine bay.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n  \u003ch4\u003eDirect Bolt-On Replacement\u003c\/h4\u003e\n  \n  \u003cp\u003eThis strainer installs in the same location on your cylinder head as the factory piece. It uses the same two bolt mounting pattern, and everything you need comes in the box. The Allen head bolts are included, and the filter screen and o-ring are already installed on the strainer cover. You don't need to source any extra parts or modify anything. Just pull off your old strainer and bolt this one on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n  \u003ch4\u003eFilters Oil to Your VTC System\u003c\/h4\u003e\n  \n  \u003cp\u003eThe VTC oil strainer filters oil before it reaches your VTC actuator on the intake cam. This keeps debris out of the VTC system and helps your cam phasing work the way it should. The Drag Cartel strainer does the same job as the factory piece, just with better looks. The filter screen is already in place, so you're getting proper filtration right out of the box.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n  \u003ch4\u003eFits Most K20 and K24 Engines\u003c\/h4\u003e\n  \n  \u003cp\u003eThis VTC oil strainer fits a wide range of K series engines. If you're running a K20A2, K20A3, K20Z1, K20Z3, K24A1, K24A2, K24A4, K24A8, K24Z3, or K24Z7, this strainer will work on your build. That covers everything from 7th gen Civic Si engines to 9th gen Civic Si engines, TSX engines, Accord engines, and CR-V engines. If you've got a K series swap, this is a solid upgrade for your cylinder head.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n  \u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n  \n  \u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eDrag Cartel billet aluminum VTC oil strainer assembly\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eTwo Allen head mounting bolts included\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eFilter screen preinstalled on strainer cover\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eO-ring preinstalled for proper sealing\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eDirect replacement for factory VTC oil strainer\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003ePolished billet aluminum finish\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n  \u003ch4\u003eCompatible K Series Engines\u003c\/h4\u003e\n  \n  \u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eK20A2 (2002-2004 Acura RSX Type S)\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eK20A3 (2002-2005 Honda Civic Si, 2002-2004 Acura RSX Base)\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eK20Z1 (2005-2006 Acura RSX Type S)\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eK20Z3 (2006-2011 Honda Civic Si, 2006-2011 Acura CSX)\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eK24A1 (2002-2006 Honda CR-V)\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eK24A2 (2004-2008 Acura TSX)\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eK24A4 (2003-2005 Honda Accord)\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eK24A8 (2003-2011 Honda Element, 2006-2007 Honda Accord)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n  \u003ch4\u003eCommon Applications\u003c\/h4\u003e\n  \n  \u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e2002-2011 Honda Civic Si (EP3, FG2, FA5)\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e2003-2012 Honda Accord\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eK series engine swaps\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart Number:\u003c\/strong\u003e DC-VTC-STR\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Drag Cartel Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48028031942952,"sku":"DC-VTC-STR","price":54.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/DC-VTC-STR_4fo1.jpg?v=1770252066"},{"product_id":"momo-montecarlo-alcantara-steering-wheel-320-mm-black-red-stitch-black-spokes","title":"Momo Montecarlo Alcantara Steering Wheel 320 mm - Black\/Red Stitch\/Black Spokes","description":"The MOMO Montecarlo Alcantara Steering Wheel is a pinnacle of style and performance for discerning drivers. This steering wheel is the epitome of luxury, featuring black Alcantara with black spokes and exquisite red stitching, adding a touch of sophistication to your driving experience. With a compact 320mm diameter, this steering wheel is designed for those who appreciate precision control and a sporty feel. The smaller diameter ensures a direct and responsive connection to your vehicle, enhancing maneuverability and handling.\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003eVersatility is key with the MOMO Montecarlo Alcantara Steering Wheel. Compatible with steering boss hubs, quick releases, or racing hubs, it seamlessly integrates into various setups, allowing you to tailor your driving environment to your preferences. The high-quality Alcantara material not only provides a luxurious tactile experience but also ensures a secure grip during spirited drives.  \u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Momo Motorsports","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48028411396392,"sku":"MOM-MCL-32AL3B","price":259.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/MOM-MCL-32AL3B_1.jpg?v=1732492110"},{"product_id":"speedfactory-racing-universal-aluminum-race-radiator","title":"SpeedFactory Universal Aluminum Race Radiator","description":"\u003ch3\u003eSpeedFactory Universal Aluminum Race Radiator - Compact Drag Racing Radiator\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBuilding a turbo Honda with a front-mount intercooler that's eating up all your radiator space? The SpeedFactory universal aluminum race radiator's a compact 14.5\" x 10\" radiator designed for tight engine bays where a full-size radiator won't fit. I've seen these radiators on drag cars, tube-chassis builds, and engine-swapped cars where the factory radiator location's been deleted for a massive intercooler or turbo setup. The radiator's only 3 inches thick (5.5 inches with the fan and shroud), so it fits in spaces where you can't run a normal radiator. It comes with a SPAL 9\" fan and integrated shroud, so you've got everything you need for a complete cooling setup. Here's the catch: this is a drag racing radiator, not a street radiator. It's designed for short bursts of cooling (like drag passes or dyno pulls), not sustained highway driving or track sessions. If you're building a street car, you need a bigger radiator.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's What This Radiator's Actually For\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis radiator's designed for drag racing and show cars where you need cooling for short periods. A drag pass is 10-15 seconds of full-throttle abuse, then you're cooling down for 5-10 minutes before your next pass. The radiator can handle that duty cycle. It's also popular for show cars where you need a radiator to keep the engine cool while it's sitting at a show, but you're not actually driving the car hard. The radiator's NOT designed for street use or road racing. The core's too small to handle sustained cooling load from highway driving or 20-minute track sessions. You'll overheat. SpeedFactory says right in the product description: this radiator's for drag racing and show applications, use a larger radiator for street use. Don't ignore that warning or you'll be on the side of the highway overheating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003e14.5\" x 10\" x 3\" Core - Way Smaller Than Stock\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe radiator core's 14.5 inches tall, 10 inches wide, and 3 inches thick. For comparison, a stock Civic radiator's around 20-24 inches wide and 16-18 inches tall. The SpeedFactory radiator's got way less surface area and coolant capacity. That's the trade-off for the compact size. Less surface area means less heat rejection capability. The radiator can cool your engine during short bursts, but it can't handle continuous heat load like a full-size radiator can. The included SPAL 9\" fan and shroud add 2.5 inches to the thickness, so the total depth with the fan is 5.5 inches. That's still way thinner than a radiator and fan combo on a stock car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eAvailable in -16 AN or 32mm Hose Fittings\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSpeedFactory makes this radiator in two versions: -16 AN fittings or 32mm radiator hose fittings. The -16 AN version has male AN fittings welded to the tanks. You're running -16 AN hoses from your engine to the radiator. -16 AN is overkill for most applications, but it's what a lot of drag cars and custom builds use. The 32mm hose version has 32mm tube bungs welded to the tanks for standard radiator hoses. 32mm is close to 1.25 inches, which is a common radiator hose size. Pick whichever version matches your cooling system plumbing. The radiator also has a -6 AN ORB (O-Ring Boss) drain fitting on the bottom, so you can drain the radiator without pulling hoses off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eTIG Welded 5052 Aluminum Tanks\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe radiator tanks are CAD-designed and formed from 5052 aluminum. 5052's a common aluminum alloy for sheet metal work because it's easy to form and weld. The tanks are TIG welded to the core, and the whole radiator's pressure-tested after welding. The top tank's got the SpeedFactory logo CNC engraved into it, which looks clean for a show car. The radiator comes with two M8 x 1.25mm billet aluminum mounting bungs welded to the tanks. You're fabricating your own mounting brackets that bolt to those bungs. There are no universal mounting brackets included because every custom application's different.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eSPAL 9\" Fan and Shroud Included\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe radiator comes with a SPAL 9\" low-profile fan and an integrated aluminum shroud. The fan's a puller fan that mounts on the back of the radiator. SPAL fans are good quality and they move enough air for this size radiator. The shroud's designed to fit tight to the radiator core so the fan's pulling air through the entire core instead of just the center section. You're wiring the fan to a manual switch, a temp switch, or your ECU's fan output. The fan doesn't come pre-wired, you're doing your own wiring.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSpeedFactory universal aluminum race radiator\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCore dimensions: 14.5\" H x 10\" W x 3\" D (5.5\" with fan and shroud)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e5052 aluminum tanks (TIG welded, pressure tested)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCNC engraved SpeedFactory logo on top tank\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAvailable in two versions:\n    \u003cul\u003e\n      \u003cli\u003e-16 AN male fittings (for AN hose plumbing)\u003c\/li\u003e\n      \u003cli\u003e32mm radiator hose fittings (for standard hoses)\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003c\/ul\u003e\n  \u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e-6 AN ORB drain fitting\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSPAL 9\" low-profile puller fan included\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eIntegrated aluminum fan shroud included\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2x M8 x 1.25mm billet aluminum mounting bungs\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDesigned for drag racing and show applications\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eNOT recommended for street use or sustained cooling loads\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCommon Applications\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDrag racing cars (short cooling bursts between passes)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eShow cars (static cooling for display)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eTube-chassis builds with no factory radiator location\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eEngine swaps with FMIC that deletes factory radiator space\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCustom builds where space is extremely limited\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e This radiator is NOT recommended for street use, road racing, or sustained cooling loads. It's designed for drag racing (short bursts of cooling) and show applications (static display). If you're building a street car or a road race car, you need a full-size radiator with way more cooling capacity. Don't use this radiator on the street and expect it to work, you'll overheat. The radiator doesn't include mounting brackets. You're fabricating your own brackets that bolt to the M8 mounting bungs on the tanks. Every custom application's different, so SpeedFactory doesn't include universal brackets. The SPAL fan needs to be wired to a power source. You can wire it to a manual switch, a temperature switch, or your ECU's cooling fan output. The fan draws around 7-10 amps depending on model, so make sure your wiring and switch can handle the load. \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SpeedFactory","offers":[{"title":"-16AN","offer_id":48028545253672,"sku":"SFR-06-021","price":696.14,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"32mm","offer_id":48028545286440,"sku":"SFR-06-022","price":696.14,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/SFR-06-022_5y8x.jpg?v=1774909254"},{"product_id":"speedfactory-5-5mm-viton-honda-intake-valve-stem-seal-blue-set-of-8","title":"SpeedFactory 5.5mm Viton Valve Stem Seals for Honda\/Acura","description":"\u003ch3\u003eSpeedFactory 5.5mm Viton Valve Stem Seals - Honda\/Acura B\/D\/F\/H\/K Series and F20C\/F22C\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGot blue smoke coming out of your exhaust when you start your car or hit the gas hard? That's your valve stem seals leaking oil into the combustion chamber. SpeedFactory makes these seals from DuPont Viton, which lasts way longer than the factory rubber seals. Viton handles heat and aggressive fuels better, so if you're rebuilding your head or replacing worn seals, these are what you need. They're sized for 5.5mm valve stems, which is what most aftermarket performance valves use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat Happens When Valve Stem Seals Wear Out\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eValve stem seals sit at the top of each valve guide and keep engine oil from dripping down into the combustion chamber. Factory seals are rubber, and after years of heat cycling and oil exposure, rubber gets hard and cracks. Once they crack, oil seeps past the valve guide and into the cylinder. When that oil burns, you get blue smoke. If you're seeing smoke on cold starts or during hard acceleration, your seals are done.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy Viton Works Better\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSpeedFactory uses DuPont Viton for these seals instead of standard rubber. Viton's rated for 400°F continuous use, which is way higher than what your head reaches even during hard driving. It also holds up to E85, race gas, and synthetic oils without breaking down. If you're running aggressive fuels or you're pushing your motor hard, Viton seals hold up where rubber seals fail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eThese Are for 5.5mm Valve Stems\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThese seals fit 5.5mm valve stems. Factory Honda valve stems vary by engine—some use 5mm intake and 5.5mm exhaust, others use different combos. If you're swapping to aftermarket valves from companies like Supertech, Ferrea, or Del West, most of those use 5.5mm stems for both intake and exhaust. Confirm your valve stem diameter before ordering or you'll get seals that don't fit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eSold as Individual Sets\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're buying a set of 8 seals—either intake or exhaust, not both. Since most Honda engines run 8 intake valves and 8 exhaust valves, you'll need to order two separate sets to do a full head. One intake set, one exhaust set. Don't try to save money by only doing half the head. If half your seals are shot, the other half isn't far behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSpeedFactory 5.5mm Viton valve stem seals (8-piece set, intake or exhaust)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDuPont Viton construction\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e400°F continuous temperature rating\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCompatible with E85, race fuel, and synthetic oils\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMachined metal jacket construction\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eInternal garter spring for constant tension\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePolished sealing surfaces\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatible Engines\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eB-series VTEC (B16, B17, B18C)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eD-series (D15, D16 with 5.5mm stems)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eF-series VTEC (F20B, F22B VTEC)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eH-series VTEC (H22A, H23A VTEC)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK-series (K20, K24)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eF20C, F22C (S2000)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits Your Car\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1989-2001 Acura Integra\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1988-2000 Honda Civic\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1988-1991 Honda CRX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1993-1997 Honda Del Sol\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1990-2007 Honda Accord\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1997-2006 Honda CR-V\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1992-2001 Honda Prelude\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2000-2009 Honda S2000\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Only works with 5.5mm valve stems. Verify your valve stem diameter before ordering. Most aftermarket performance valves are 5.5mm for both intake and exhaust, but factory sizes vary by engine. You need two sets for a complete head—one intake, one exhaust. Installing valve stem seals requires a valve spring compressor and proper procedure. If you don't know how to set valve spring installed height correctly, take your head to a machine shop.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SpeedFactory","offers":[{"title":"Intake","offer_id":48028550857000,"sku":"SFR-02-470-8","price":9.97,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Exhaust","offer_id":48028550889768,"sku":"SFR-02-471-8","price":9.97,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/speedfactory-5-5mm-viton-valve_mes1.jpg?v=1772656871"},{"product_id":"rywire-k-to-b-series-sensor-adapter","title":"Rywire K to B Series Sensor Adapter for K20\/K24","description":"\u003ch3\u003eRywire K to B Sensor Adapter\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nThe Rywire K to B Sensor Adapter is a clean, reliable way to run proven B-series sensors on your K-series engine harness. Whether you need a B series MAP sensor adapter or a B series TPS adapter, this plug-in piece takes the headache out of wiring and gives your K-swap stable sensor data for smooth drivability and repeatable tuning.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nIf you’re running a K-series with B-series intake parts or an aftermarket throttle body, this K series to B series adapter lets you plug a B-series TPS or B-series MAP straight into your existing K harness—no cutting, soldering, or sketchy butt-connectors. You get a tidier bay, cleaner logs, and a K to B sensor harness you can trust long-term. We run this Rywire K to B adapter style setup on our own cars for exactly that reason.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy Run B-Series Sensors on Your K?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nPlenty of K-swapped cars fight with jittery throttle position data or noisy MAP signals—especially with big throttle bodies, boost, or standalone ECUs. B-series sensors have a long track record for being predictable, durable, and well-supported across Honda tuning. Most tuners know their scaling by heart.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eMore stable tuning: B-series TPS and MAP sensors usually give cleaner, more repeatable signals.\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eEasy to replace: You can still buy brand-new, reliable B-series sensors from Honda without hunting used parts.\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eBuilt for mixed setups: Ideal if you’re mixing a K-series long block with B-series intake parts or throttle bodies.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nIf your TPS trace looks like an EKG, your MAP signal won’t settle down, or you just want the consistency of Honda’s B-series hardware, a Rywire sensor adapter is what a lot of serious builders end up using. The goal is simple: stable data and less wiring drama.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eTrue plug-and-play: Snaps between your factory K harness and a B-series TPS or MAP sensor—no re-pinning or custom K to B series harness work.\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eCleaner data: Helps get rid of weird spikes and dropouts you can see in logs from mismatched K sensors.\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eProven hardware: Lets you run OEM-style B-series Honda sensors that are known to stay accurate for years.\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eOEM-style install: Short K to B throttle position adapter \/ MAP pigtail for a tidy Rywire B series throttle sensor adapter look in the bay.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eOptions \u0026amp; Specifications\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eRywire MAP Adapter: SKU: RYW-K-B-MAP-ADAP — B series MAP sensor adapter to plug a B-series MAP into a K harness (Rywire MAP sensor adapter).\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eRywire TPS Adapter: SKU: RYW-K-B-TPS-ADAP — K to B throttle position adapter to run a B-series TPS on a K harness (Rywire throttle position sensor adapter).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nEach Rywire K to B sensor connection is about 5 inches long and converts the factory K-series wiring to accept either a B-series throttle position sensor (TPS) or a B-series manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor. Pick the Rywire K series sensor adapter that matches the sensor you’re using, or grab both if you want full K to B sensor harness flexibility for future changes. We use these same Rywire sensor adapter pieces on our own swaps for exactly that reason.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Rywire","offers":[{"title":"MAP","offer_id":48028576252200,"sku":"RYW-K-B-MAP-ADAP","price":30.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"TPS","offer_id":48028576284968,"sku":"RYW-K-B-TPS-ADAP","price":30.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/rywire-k-to-b-series-sensor-ad_b7wg.jpg?v=1768194260"},{"product_id":"k24a2-front-main-seal-91214-rnb-a01","title":"Honda K24A2 Rear Main Seal 91214-RNB-A01","description":"OEM Honda\/Acura Rear Main Seal helps prevent leaks and is a direct replacement for the factory seal. As this is a factory part, the high quality precision and fitment are to be expected. Ideal for OEM replacements or engine rebuilds. Fits a large variety of Honda and Acura chassis. ","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48028593422632,"sku":"OHA-91214-RNB-A01","price":17.17,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/OHA-91214-RNB-A01_1.jpg?v=1766522463"},{"product_id":"k20a2-spark-plug-98079-571bv","title":"Honda K20A2 Spark Plug 98079-571BV","description":"OEM NGK K Series Spark Plugs. Ideal for your next engine build or maintaining your current project. Sold individually and compatible with the K20A2 Coil Packs also offered by Hybrid Racing. Compatible with many different Honda\/Acura chassis. ","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48028631826728,"sku":"OHA-98079-571BV","price":22.27,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/OHA-98079-571BV_0.JPG?v=1767984973"},{"product_id":"ktuner-v1-2-ecu-flash-tuning-package","title":"KTuner V1.2 ECU Flash Tuner for Accord\/Civic\/Fit\/S2000","description":"\u003ch3\u003eKTuner V1.2 ECU Flash Tuning Package - Honda\/Acura\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWant more power from your stock Honda or Acura? KTuner V1.2 is an ECU flash tuning tool that lets you upload custom tunes to your factory ECU through the OBD-II port. You plug it into your laptop or phone, load a tune, flash it to your ECU, and you're making more power. You can adjust fuel maps, ignition timing, boost control (on turbo models), throttle response, and pretty much everything else the ECU controls. If you've got bolt-ons like an intake, downpipe, or exhaust, you need KTuner to tune for those parts. If you're stock, KTuner still wakes the car up with better throttle response and smoother power delivery.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBluetooth Connectivity with TunerView App\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eKTuner V1.2 connects to your phone via Bluetooth using the TunerView app for Android. You can flash tunes, datalog, and monitor engine parameters directly from your phone without needing a laptop. You can store multiple tunes on the device and switch between them using the app. The device also connects to your laptop via USB if you want to do more advanced tuning or work with a tuner who's building you a custom tune.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFlash Custom Tunes or Use Preloaded Maps\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eKTuner comes with preloaded base maps for common modifications (intake, exhaust, downpipe, etc.). You can flash those maps and see gains immediately, or you can work with a professional tuner to build you a custom tune for your specific setup. If you're running serious modifications like a big turbo or built motor, you need a custom tune. If you're running mild bolt-ons, the base maps work pretty well as a starting point.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eLocked to One ECU, Can Be Unlocked\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eKTuner V1.2 locks to your ECU the first time you flash a tune. Once it's locked, you can only use it on that one car. If you sell your car or want to move the KTuner to a different car, you can unlock it by reverting your car back to the factory tune. Once it's unlocked, you can sell it or use it on another car. The unlock process is done through the KTuner software or TunerView app.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eDatalogging Without a Laptop\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eKTuner logs data directly to the device, so you can datalog without having a laptop plugged in. You drive the car, the KTuner records all your engine parameters, and then you can download the logs later to review or send to your tuner. That's way easier than trying to datalog with a laptop sitting on your passenger seat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eKTuner V1.2 ECU flash tuning device\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBluetooth connectivity with TunerView app (Android)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUSB cable for laptop connection\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePreloaded base maps for common modifications\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eOn-board datalogging\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMultiple tune storage\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eLocks to one ECU, can be unlocked for resale\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatible Vehicles (Partial List)\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2016-2021 Honda Civic 1.5T (FC1, FK7)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2017-2021 Honda Civic Type R (FK8)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2016-2021 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2013-2017 Honda Accord\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eVarious Acura models (check KTuner website for full compatibility)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e All KTuner sales are final. No returns after you've received the device because it ties to your ECU's serial number and licensing. Get your car professionally tuned after installing KTuner if you're running serious modifications. Don't just load a base map and drive if you're running a big turbo or built motor. Get it tuned properly on a dyno. TunerView app requires Android. iPhone's not supported for flashing tunes, but you can use a laptop with Windows if you don't have Android.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"KTuner","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48028810019112,"sku":"KTR-ECU-01-02","price":449.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/KTR-ECU-01-02-1.JPG?v=1718445261"},{"product_id":"ktuner-v2-0-ecu-flash-tuning-package","title":"KTuner V2.0 ECU Flash Tuner for Accord\/Civic\/Fit\/S2000","description":"\u003ch3\u003eKTuner V2.0 ECU Flash Tuner - Honda\/Acura\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're tired of dragging a laptop to your car every time you want to switch maps or pull datalogs. The KTuner V2.0's a standalone handheld ECU tuner with a 5-inch touchscreen that plugs into your OBD2 port and does everything, flashing tunes, monitoring live data, storing datalogs, without a computer. You write your tune in the KTuner desktop software on your laptop, push it to the V2.0 over USB, then you're flashing tunes from the handheld whenever you want. No laptop bungee-corded to your passenger seat, no cables across your dash, no hassle. The V2.0 stores your factory tune plus multiple custom maps on the device so you can switch between a conservative daily map and an aggressive 93 octane map right in your driveway in about two minutes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's Why You Want the V2.0 Instead of Just the Cable\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eKTuner makes a basic flash cable that's cheaper than the V2.0. That cable works fine but you need a laptop every single time you want to flash a tune or check data. The V2.0's different, it stores all your tunes on the handheld and it's got a full digital dash that runs while you're driving. You're looking at coolant temps, intake temps, AFR, fuel trims, knock counts, boost pressure (if you're turbocharged), whatever parameters you care about, all on the 5-inch screen. No separate gauges, no laptop propped on your dash. The screen's also got configurable layouts so you can set up different gauge clusters for street driving vs. track use vs. datalogging pulls.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eOne Device Locks to One ECU at a Time\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOnce you register the V2.0 and flash an ECU with it, the device locks to that ECU. You can't hand it to your friend so they can tune their car, it won't work. If you need to move the V2.0 to a different car, you flash your current ECU back to stock using the unlock function, then you can pair the V2.0 with the new ECU. One device, one ECU at a time. That's how KTuner's licensing works so if you're planning to tune multiple cars, you need multiple KTuner devices. Plan that out before you buy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eStores 1,000 Datalogs On the Device\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe V2.0 holds up to 1,000 datalogs on the handheld. You're doing street pulls, the device's recording everything, AFR, timing, knock, fuel pressure, whatever you've got sensors for. Later you pull the logs into the desktop software, review what the motor's doing, make your adjustments, push the revised tune back to the V2.0, and flash it. The whole tune-test-review loop stays clean and you're not texting your tuner blurry phone pictures of your AFR gauge. Professional tuners love this because they can hand a client the V2.0, tell them to do some pulls, and get actual usable datalogs back instead of \"yeah it felt good.\"\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eRGB Shift Lights and Bluetooth\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe V2.0's got five programmable RGB LEDs across the top. Set your shift point, configure warning thresholds for coolant temp or oil pressure, adjust the brightness. They work as a peripheral shift indicator when you're looking at the screen for your gauge layout. The unit's also got built-in Bluetooth so you can push live KTuner data to third-party display apps on your phone or tablet if you'd rather run data that way. Some people mount their phone on the dash and use it as a secondary display while the V2.0's tucked away somewhere.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePass-Through Flashing if You Need It\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're deep in a tuning session and you're making rapid back-to-back map changes, you can use pass-through mode to flash the car directly from the desktop software while the V2.0's still connected. You're getting the best of both, standalone convenience when you're out on the street, full desktop control when you're in the shop tweaking tables. Most people use the handheld 90% of the time and pass-through when they're really dialing something in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorks with These Honda and Acura Models\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eKTuner supports a wide range of Honda and Acura platforms from the mid-2000s through the mid-2020s. The short version: if you're on a Civic, Accord, Fit, S2000, CR-V, HR-V, ILX, TLX, TSX, RSX, or most other Honda\/Acura models, there's a good chance you're covered. Check the full compatibility list on KTuner's website before ordering if you're on an edge-case year or trim. Some models need specific firmware versions and some ECUs aren't supported at all. Don't assume your car's compatible, verify it first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eGet the Most Out of Your Tune\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTuning doesn't make power by itself, you need supporting mods to give the tune something to work with. If you're tuning a naturally aspirated K series, you're going to want a cold air intake and a header to actually see gains. If you're tuning a turbocharged 1.5T or 2.0T, you're looking at downpipe, intake, intercooler, and possibly upgraded fuel system components depending on how much boost you're running. The KTuner lets you adjust fuel, timing, cam angles, boost control, and all the tables that make those mods actually work together. Without the hardware, the tune's just optimizing a stock setup and you're leaving power on the table.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eKTuner V2.0 handheld display unit\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e5-inch color touchscreen with configurable display layouts\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eOBD2 data cable for connecting to your car\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUSB data connection cable for connecting to your computer\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFactory tune backup storage on device\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMultiple custom tune slots for map switching\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUp to 1,000 onboard datalogs\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFive programmable RGB LED shift lights\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBuilt-in Bluetooth for third-party display apps\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePass-through flashing support\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAvailable with or without suction cup windshield mount\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eAvailable Versions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKTR-ECU-01-03 (Without Mount):\u003c\/strong\u003e Just the V2.0 unit and cables. You're mounting it yourself or you already have a mount.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKTR-ECU-01-00 (With Mount):\u003c\/strong\u003e Includes suction cup windshield mount so you can stick the V2.0 on your windshield or side window for easy viewing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e All KTuner sales are final once the product's been received. We can't accept returns on tuning devices because of licensing and the nature of ECU tuners, once you've registered the device and flashed an ECU, it's used. Confirm your car's compatible before you order. If you're not sure whether KTuner supports your specific year\/trim\/ECU, contact us before you buy or check KTuner's compatibility list on their website. Don't guess, verify compatibility first or you're stuck with a device that won't work on your car.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"KTuner","offers":[{"title":"Without Mount","offer_id":48028841312552,"sku":"KTR-ECU-01-03","price":649.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"With Mount","offer_id":48028841378088,"sku":"KTR-ECU-01-00","price":663.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/KTR-ECU-01-03-1.JPG?v=1718445316"},{"product_id":"restotuner-honda-acura-fuel-door-replacement-decal","title":"RestoTuner Honda \u0026 Acura Fuel Door Replacement Decal","description":"The RestoTuner JDM Fuel Door Decal adds a personal touch to your vehicle. Located inside the fuel door, the decal is printed on high-quality material, and the adhesive properties ensure the decal stays in proper condition for extended periods. This decal is available in both Premium or Standard Fuel designation and is the perfect small accessory for any USDM or JDM Honda\/Acura vehicle. ","brand":"RestoTuner","offers":[{"title":"JDM Premium","offer_id":48029018325288,"sku":"RST-DCL-01-01","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"JDM Standard","offer_id":48029018390824,"sku":"RST-DCL-01-02","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"USDM Premium","offer_id":48029018423592,"sku":"RST-DCL-01-92","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"USDM Standard","offer_id":48029018489128,"sku":"RST-DCL-01-99","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/IMG_6411_6693c09e-d6b4-4fb3-a7cd-4fb323f51fc6.jpg?v=1718445976"},{"product_id":"restotuner-honda-paint-code-replacement-decals-interior-color","title":"RestoTuner Honda Interior Paint Code Decals","description":"The RestoTuner Honda Interior Paint Replacement Decals help easily identify the standardized reference to achieve consistency in color in case of touch-ups, repairs, or repainting. The code on the label is easily readable, and the strong adhesive ensures it stays in pristine condition for long periods. The durable material eliminates the need for frequent replacements.","brand":"RestoTuner","offers":[{"title":"Type A Black\/Gray","offer_id":48029581902120,"sku":"RST-DCL-01-62","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Type B - Blue","offer_id":48029581934888,"sku":"RST-DCL-01-63","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Type D Black","offer_id":48029581967656,"sku":"RST-DCL-01-64","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Type K - Off Black","offer_id":48029582000424,"sku":"RST-DCL-01-65","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/IMG_7165_crop.jpg?v=1768080468"},{"product_id":"blox-racing-manual-boost-controller","title":"Blox Racing Manual Boost Controller","description":"Blox Racing’s Manual Boost Controller allows the user to quickly and accurately adjust boost pressure. It is compatible with internal and external wastegates. Higher boost is achieved by manipulating the pressure that reaches the wastegate, or wastegate actuator for internal wastegates.\u003cdiv\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\u003cdiv\u003eUnlike its electronic counterparts, the Manual Boost Controller is 100% mechanical, offering reliability and ease of installation. No wiring or additional modules are needed to power it. The Boost Controller is simply placed in between a boost input source and the wastegate port, parts needed for plumbing are included.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003eManufactured from high grade aluminum and stainless steel components, the Blox Racing Boost Controller looks, feels, and performs like a quality part. The boost dial provides the operator fine adjustment. To offer a wider range of adjustability, two interchangeable springs are provided; soft - for lower boost, and stiff - for higher boost.\n\n\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Blox Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48409709510952,"sku":"BXAC-00600-BK","price":88.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/BXAC-00600-BK_1.jpg?v=1737164553"},{"product_id":"hybrid-racing-cmc-upgrade-acura-tsx","title":"Hybrid Racing Clutch Master Upgrade for Accord\/Civic\/RSX\/TSX","description":"The Hybrid Racing Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade kit straightforward bolt-on part for the 2002-2006 Acura RSX, 2003-2007 Honda Accord, 2002-2015 Honda Civic Si, 2002-2006 Honda CRV, 2004-2008 Acura TSX, and 2003-2010 Honda Element.\n\nthat includes an OE Nissin CMC, a stainless braided clutch line with fittings, and a stand-off for mounting the clutch line. No additional replacement parts or parts from the factory CMC are required. The kit has the necessary grease to lubricate the clevis pin and prevent NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness).\u003cdiv\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003eThe OE Nissin CMC used in the kit has an aluminum piston body compared to the plastic assembly in older models. The plastic assembly has the potential to deflect in racing conditions or by using a stronger pressure plate. In 2002, Honda introduced a damper and delay valve in the clutch hydraulic system for US models with K-series powertrains. The damper in the CMC body casting, identified by the external triangular section, reduces vibrations transmitted to the clutch pedal, minimizing cabin NVH and vehicle feedback. We remove this damper to enhance the connection to the powertrain, resulting in increased pedal feedback and consistency at higher engine speeds and loads. This more direct connection is preferred by drivers and racers alike. Upgrading to our CMC kit will improve the pedal feel. However, it can make the entire system slightly more noisy under normal conditions.   \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThis is not suitable for RHD vehicles. \u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Hybrid Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48742697402664,"sku":"HYB-CMC-01-20","price":289.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/HYB-CMC-01-20_1.jpg?v=1738705639"},{"product_id":"action-clutch-x-arp-honda-k-series-flywheel-bolts","title":"Action Clutch x ARP Honda K Series Flywheel Bolts","description":"\u003ch3\u003eAction Clutch x ARP Honda K Series Flywheel Bolts\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nAction Clutch x ARP Honda K Series flywheel bolts are the hardware you put in once and don’t worry about again. If you’re swapping a clutch, upgrading to a lightweight flywheel, or freshening up your K Series, these bolts are a big step up from tired factory hardware. Built with ARP’s fastener know-how, they give you consistent clamping force and way more headroom when you lean on the car at high RPM.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nThis Honda flywheel bolt kit uses the same ARP Honda K Series bolts and material standards you already trust on serious builds. The set fits Honda\/Acura K Series flywheels and works with both OEM and K Series aftermarket flywheels. That means you can use these Action Clutch Honda fasteners on anything from a simple street clutch job to a full K Series track car. Each K Series flywheel bolt set includes all the hardware you need plus a packet of ARP Fastener Assembly Lube so you can hit accurate torque numbers and keep clamping force consistent.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nOn hard launches, missed shifts, or long track sessions, cheap hardware stretches and loosens. These ARP flywheel bolts Honda guys actually trust help keep the flywheel tight against the crank, which cuts down on fretting, loosening, and sheared bolts. Clear torque specs and tightening sequence are included, so you don’t have to dig through forums while the car’s stuck on jack stands. We run this same Acura K Series flywheel bolt kit on our own K cars and recommend it any time the flywheel comes off.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eNoticeably stronger and more consistent than OEM Honda K Series flywheel bolts\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAction Clutch x ARP K Series fastener bolts with proven ARP reliability\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBuilt specifically for Honda\/Acura K Series engines and transmissions\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks with OEM and aftermarket crankshafts and flywheels\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSuited for daily use, drag passes, and K Series track flywheel bolts duty\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eIncludes ARP Fastener Assembly Lube and torque specs for a proper install\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nIf you’re pulling the trans, don’t reuse sketchy old hardware. Step up to premium K Series flywheel bolts with this Honda K Series flywheel bolts and Honda K Series transmission bolts kit (SKU: ACC-HDW-01-01) from Action Clutch x ARP and lock your flywheel down the right way the first time.\n\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Action Clutch","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48743440285992,"sku":"ACC-HDW-01-01","price":88.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/ACC-HDW-01-01_2gg9.jpg?v=1767734516"},{"product_id":"wavetrac-honda-acura-k-series-limited-slip-differential","title":"Wavetrac Honda\/Acura K Series Limited Slip Differential","description":"Wavetrac diffs are state-of-the-art helical gear differentials designed, developed, and manufactured in the USA by Autotech Driveline. The Acura RSX and Honda Civic Wavetrac Differential is the only torque biasing differential on the market, and it has patented technology that mitigates wheelspin when an unloaded wheel condition arises. During zero axle load conditions, the Wavetrac cam device creates internal load, maintaining drive on the gripping wheel instead of acting like an open diff (and going nowhere!). Super strong 9310 alloy steel gears are enclosed in case-hardened steel bodies, held together with ARP fasteners. All Wavetrac differentials include a transferable, Limited Lifetime Warranty.  ","brand":"Wavetrac","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48743707345192,"sku":"WAV-LSD-01-05","price":795.5,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/WAV-LSD-01-05_9crop.jpg?v=1732316541"},{"product_id":"skunk2-racing-k-series-ultra-lightweight-magnesium-valve-cover-for-acura-rsx-type-s-honda-civic-si","title":"Skunk2 K-Series Magnesium Valve Cover (K20A, K20Z, K24Z)","description":"Introducing the Skunk2 Racing K-Series Ultra Lightweight Magnesium Valve Cover, a pioneering innovation for the K Series engine. This valve cover sets a new benchmark in engine aesthetics and performance enhancement, crafted from a cutting-edge magnesium alloy to deliver unparalleled weight reduction and style.\n\nWeighing in at a mere 2.75 lbs, this valve cover is 60-percent lighter than the aluminum OEM valve cover, significantly reducing engine bay weight without compromising durability. The sleek, low-profile design not only offers enhanced under-hood clearance but also elevates the visual appeal of your engine bay with its raw magnesium finish and clean, symmetrical lines.\n\nFunctionality meets form with practical features such as relocated mounting bolt locations for improved symmetry, two -10 AN vent ports for optimal catch can ventilation, and one -08 AN PCV port with a built-in, cleanable mesh filter for OEM-style PCV functionality. The valve cover comes complete with a specialized dipstick, low-profile oil cap, and mounting hardware, ensuring a seamless installation process. \u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: bold;\"\u003eKey Features: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCast from high-strength, ultra-lightweight magnesium alloy. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e60-percent lighter than OEM aluminum valve covers, weighing only 2.75 lbs. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIncludes two -10 AN vent ports and one -08 AN PCV port with a cleanable filter. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eEnhanced under-hood clearance with a low-profile design. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRaw magnesium finish adds a striking look to your engine bay. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: bold;\"\u003eBenefits: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSignificant weight reduction improves overall vehicle performance. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOptimal ventilation ports eliminate the need for cutting, drilling, or welding. ]\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAdds a unique and stylish aesthetic to your engine bay. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-style: italic;\"\u003ePlease Note: Not compatible with the K20C engine. Not recommended for 2006-2015 Honda Civics due to potential interference with the factory windshield cowl. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e Elevate your vehicle's performance and style with the Skunk2 Racing K-Series Ultra Lightweight Magnesium Valve Cover, where advanced materials and engineering excellence converge.\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Skunk2 Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48806740459816,"sku":"SK2-666-05-0200","price":471.34,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/SK2-666-05-0200_1.jpg?v=1771451788"},{"product_id":"aem-digital-oil-pressure-gauge-0-150-psi-30-4407","title":"AEM Universal 52mm Digital Oil Pressure Gauge 0-150 PSI","description":"\u003ch3\u003eAEM Digital Oil Pressure Gauge - 0-150 PSI\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTracking your turbo Civic or all-motor Integra and you're worried about oil starvation at high RPM? The AEM digital oil pressure gauge reads from 0-150 PSI in 1 PSI increments so you know exactly what's happening with your oil pressure. It's got a three-digit LED readout in the center and 24 green LEDs around the edge that light up like a sweeping needle. When your oil pressure drops, you'll see it immediately. The gauge auto-dims at night so it's not blinding you, and it comes with a 0-5V analog output so you can wire it to your Hondata, AEM standalone, or whatever data logger you're running. If you're doing track days or road racing and you want to make sure your oil pressure isn't dropping off at 8500 RPM in Turn 9, this gauge tells you what's actually happening instead of guessing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's Why Oil Pressure Matters on Track\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYour stock oil pressure gauge is garbage. It's either showing you nothing or it's showing you some vague needle position that doesn't tell you the actual pressure. When you're pulling high Gs in corners or you're revving to 9000 RPM, your oil pressure can drop if your oil pump can't keep up or if you're running low on oil. If your pressure drops below 20-30 PSI at high RPM, you're starving your rod bearings and main bearings. That's how you spin a bearing or crack a rod. The AEM gauge shows you the exact pressure in real time. If you see it dropping into the danger zone on track, you know to back off before you grenade your motor. Your stock gauge won't tell you that until it's too late.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003e24 Green LEDs Work Like a Tach\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe gauge has 24 green LEDs around the edge that work like a shift light or tach. As your oil pressure increases, more LEDs light up. You can see the LEDs in your peripheral vision while you're driving, so you don't need to stare at the center number. If the LEDs start dropping off, you know your pressure's falling and you need to check what's going on. It's way faster to glance at the LEDs than to read a number while you're mid-corner at 100 mph.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003e0-5V Output for Data Logging\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe gauge has a 0-5V analog output that you can wire to your Hondata S300\/KPro, AEM Infinity\/Series 2 EMS, AEM AQ-1 data logger, or pretty much any standalone ECU or data logger. That lets you log oil pressure alongside AFR, coolant temp, oil temp, and boost pressure. After your session, you can pull the logs and see exactly where your oil pressure dropped and what you were doing when it happened. Maybe it's dropping in long right-handers because your oil's sloshing away from the pickup. Maybe it's dropping at 8500+ RPM because your oil pump's cavitating. The logs tell you what's actually wrong instead of guessing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eAuto-Dims So You're Not Blinded at Night\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe gauge has a built-in photocell that adjusts the LED brightness based on how much light's hitting it. During the day, the LEDs are bright so you can read them in sunlight. At night, they dim automatically so you're not staring at a blinding green display. You don't need to wire it to your dimmer switch or mess with brightness settings - it just works.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAEM digital oil pressure gauge\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e0-150 PSI range (reads in 1 PSI increments)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eThree-digit LED center display\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e24 green LED sweeping indicator lights\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAuto-dimming based on ambient light (built-in photocell)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e0-5V analog output for data logging\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e52mm (2-1\/16\") standard gauge size\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eInterchangeable silver and black bezels\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eInterchangeable black and white faceplates\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBrass oil pressure sensor included\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePlug-and-play wiring harness included\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorks With\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCarbureted and EFI vehicles\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHondata S300, KPro, FlashPro (0-5V analog input)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAEM Infinity ECU (0-5V analog input)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAEM Series 2 EMS (0-5V analog input)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAEM AQ-1 Data Logger (0-5V analog input)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMost aftermarket data loggers and standalone ECUs that accept 0-5V analog inputs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e The brass oil pressure sensor screws into your oil pressure sender port on your engine block or oil filter housing. You're ditching your factory oil pressure sender and running the AEM sensor instead. Some engines have multiple oil pressure ports - use the one closest to your oil pump for the most accurate reading. The 0-5V analog output needs to be wired to your ECU or data logger if you want to log oil pressure. If you're just using the gauge for visual monitoring and you're not logging, you don't need to hook up the analog output. Mount the gauge where you can actually see it while you're driving. Don't stick it down in the footwell or way off to the side. Oil pressure drops happen fast and you need to catch them immediately or you're done. If you're running a baffled oil pan, an Accusump, or an oil cooler, this gauge is mandatory. You need to know your pressure's staying up when you're pulling Gs or revving high.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"AEM","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48870007144744,"sku":"AEM-30-4407","price":274.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/AEM-30-4407_or4h.jpg?v=1774638569"},{"product_id":"aem-digital-boost-gauge-30-to-50-psi-30-4408","title":"AEM Universal LED Digital Boost Gauge","description":"\u003ch3\u003eAEM Digital Boost Gauge - 30-4408\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNeed to know what boost you're actually running? The AEM digital boost gauge shows boost pressure from -30 to 50 PSI with a sweeping LED needle and a digital readout that updates in 1 PSI increments. You can glance at it mid-pull and instantly see if you're hitting target boost or creeping past it. The gauge also outputs a 0-5 volt analog signal that you can feed into a datalogger or standalone ECU, so you're not just watching boost on a gauge, you're logging it and you can review it later to catch boost spikes, leaks, or wastegate control issues.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eSweeping LED Needle with Digital Readout\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe AEM gauge's got a sweeping LED needle that moves across the display as boost pressure changes, plus a digital readout that shows the exact PSI. The LED needle gives you quick visual feedback, and the digital readout gives you the precise number. You're not squinting at a needle on a mechanical gauge trying to figure out if you're at 18 or 19 PSI. You just look at the number.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eAuto-Dimming Display\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe gauge has a built-in photocell that auto-dims the display based on ambient light. That means you're not getting blinded by a bright gauge at night or squinting at a dim gauge in direct sunlight. It adjusts automatically, so you can actually read it no matter what time of day you're driving.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003e0-5 Volt Analog Output for Datalogging\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe gauge outputs a 0-5 volt analog signal that you can wire into a datalogger or standalone ECU. That's huge if you're tuning the car or troubleshooting boost control issues. You can log actual boost pressure and overlay it with throttle position, RPM, and whatever else you're monitoring. If you've got boost spikes or the boost controller's not hitting target, the logs show you exactly what's happening instead of you guessing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eInterchangeable Bezels and Faceplates\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAEM includes interchangeable bezels and faceplates in the box. You get a black bezel, a silver bezel, a black faceplate, and a white faceplate. Pick whichever combination matches your interior. You're not stuck with one look.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAEM digital boost gauge (part number 30-4408)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e-30 to 50 PSI range\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSweeping LED needle with digital readout\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUpdates in 1 PSI increments\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAuto-dimming display with built-in photocell\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e0-5 volt analog output for datalogging\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCompatible with AEM Infinity ECU, Series 2 EMS, AQ-1 Data Logger, and most other systems\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eInterchangeable black and silver bezels\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eInterchangeable black and white faceplates\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAll mounting hardware included\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatible Systems\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAEM Infinity ECU\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAEM Series 2 EMS\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAEM AQ-1 Data Logger\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMost standalone ECUs and dataloggers with analog voltage inputs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e The gauge requires a MAP sensor or boost pressure sensor wired to it to display boost pressure. The 0-5 volt output can be wired to a datalogger or ECU for logging. If you're using the analog output, make sure your ECU or datalogger supports 0-5 volt analog inputs.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"AEM","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48870007177512,"sku":"AEM-30-4408","price":271.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/AEM-30-4408_c2ob.jpg?v=1772463708"},{"product_id":"momo-steel-sidemounts","title":"Momo Universal Steel Side Mount Seat Bracket","description":"\u003ch3\u003eMomo Steel Side Mount Seat Bracket\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBolting a \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/search?q=MOMO+racing+seat\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eMomo seat\u003c\/a\u003e or any side-mount race seat into your Civic and you need the L-brackets that connect your seat to your rails? Momo steel side mounts are the brackets that bolt to the side tabs on your race seat. I've run Momo side mounts with Sparco seats, Bride seats, whatever, they're universal. The brackets are laser-cut from 3mm steel with a bunch of mounting holes so you can set your seat height and recline angle wherever you want. They're sold as a pair, left and right. You bolt one to each side of your seat, then you bolt the brackets down to your seat rails or you bolt them straight to your floor if you're running a custom setup. If you've got a side-mount seat, you need side mounts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's What These Actually Do\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYour race seat's got mounting tabs sticking out the sides. Your seat rails or floor mounts don't line up with those tabs. The side mounts are the adapter in between. They bolt to your seat's side tabs and they bolt to your rails or floor. The Momo brackets have probably 6-8 holes running vertically and 3-4 holes horizontally. You pick which holes to use based on how low you want to sit and how much you want the seat reclined. Want to sit lower? Use the bottom holes. Want more recline? Shift the mounting position back. It's all about getting your seating position dialed in before you torque everything down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003e3mm Laser-Cut Steel\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe brackets are laser-cut from 3mm carbon steel. That's about 1\/8 inch thick, strong enough to hold you in the seat without being crazy heavy. Laser cutting means the holes are clean and they're in the right spots. Cheap brackets are stamped or plasma-cut and the holes are all over the place. These are powder-coated black so they won't rust sitting in your car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWork with Pretty Much Any Side-Mount Seat\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMomo says these fit Momo seats, but they fit basically any side-mount seat I've ever used. Sparco, Bride, Recaro, Corbeau, whatever. Side-mount seats have pretty similar tab spacing and hole patterns. I've personally bolted Sparco Evo seats and Bride Low Max seats with Momo side mounts and they lined up fine. Just check your seat's side tab hole spacing before you order. If it's got side tabs with holes, these'll probably work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFixed Brackets - No Sliders\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThese are fixed L-brackets. Once you bolt your seat down, it's not moving. You're not sliding it forward and back like your factory seat. If you need adjustability for multiple drivers, buy seat sliders separately and bolt these side mounts to the sliders. Most people building track cars run fixed mounts to save weight and get rid of the flex that sliders add.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMomo steel side mount brackets (pair)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e3mm laser-cut carbon steel\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBlack powder-coat finish\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMultiple mounting holes for height\/recline adjustment\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks with Momo and most side-mount race seats\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorks With\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMomo race seats (all side-mount models)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMost side-mount seats (Sparco, Bride, Recaro, Corbeau, etc.)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSeat rails, sliders, or custom floor mounts\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sold as a pair (mounts one seat). Use thread locker on all bolts. Test-fit and choose your holes before you torque anything down - once you've drilled or committed to holes, it's hard to change position. If you're bolting to a roll cage, use grade 8.8+ bolts.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"MOMO","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48870008488232,"sku":"MOM-STSIDEMOUNTS","price":165.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/MOM-STSIDEMOUNTS_vlm0.jpg?v=1774984584"},{"product_id":"honda-k20z3-k24z-belt-tensioner-31170-raa-a02","title":"Honda K20Z3\/K24Z Belt Tensioner 31170-RAA-A02","description":"The Honda Auto Belt Tensioner, 31170-RAA-A02, is an important engine component that keeps the drive belt tight during operation and reduces the wear on the belt. With a bad tensioner, the belt will wear at an accelerated rate, which could cause premature belt failure and possibly damage other vital pieces of the engine. This belt tensioner is designed for RBB\/RBC engines such as the K20Z3, K24A4, K24A8, and K24Z7.  The genuine Honda belt tensioner is mounted to the water pump assembly on the K Series and is directly compatible with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/hybrid-racing-k-series-idler-bracket-pulley-belt-combo?_pos=2\u0026amp;_sid=088b46c23\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eHybrid Racing Idler Bracket Pulley\u003c\/a\u003e setup. ","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48870450495784,"sku":"OHA-31170-RAA-A02","price":163.5,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/OHA-31170-RAA-A02_1.jpg?v=1767984405"},{"product_id":"wiseco-k24-block-k20-head-87mm-bore-pistons","title":"Wiseco K20\/24 87mm Bore Pistons","description":"\u003ch3\u003eWiseco K20\/K24 Forged Pistons - 87mm Bore\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're building a K24\/K20 Frankenstein motor and you need pistons that aren't going to crack when you're making serious power. Wiseco's 87mm forged pistons are built for K series race motors, specifically K24 block with K20 head setups. These are 2618 aluminum forgings, not cast or hypereutectic pistons. The 2618 alloy's got way higher tensile strength than the stuff Honda uses in stock pistons so they handle detonation and high cylinder pressures without cracking. Wiseco makes these pistons in five different compression ratios, 11.1:1, 10.2:1, 13.7:1, 12.5:1, and 14.2:1, so you can dial in your compression based on whether you're running all-motor, mild boost, or big turbo. If you're building a motor that's going to see sustained high RPM or serious boost pressure, you need forged pistons. Stock cast pistons will crack.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's Why 2618 Aluminum Matters\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStock K series pistons are cast aluminum. Cast pistons are cheap to make and they work fine for stock power levels but they're brittle. When you start making serious power, whether that's from high compression and cams or from boost, cylinder pressures go up and cast pistons crack. The top ring land cracks, the skirt cracks, you're pulling the motor apart to replace broken pistons. Wiseco forges these pistons from 2618 aluminum. The forging process compresses the grain structure and makes the material way stronger. The 2618 alloy itself has higher tensile strength and better heat resistance than the 4032 alloy you see in cheaper forged pistons. That means these pistons handle detonation events without cracking. If you accidentally lean out and you get a little knock, the 2618 pistons absorb it. Cast pistons would crack.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eArmorGlide Skirt Coating\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWiseco coats the piston skirts with ArmorGlide. That's a friction-reducing coating that lets the piston move up and down the cylinder bore with less resistance. Less friction means less heat, quieter operation, and better seizure resistance if you ever lose oil pressure or your cooling system fails. The coating also helps the pistons survive initial startup when there's not full oil pressure yet. Stock pistons don't have a skirt coating so they're scuffing the cylinder walls every time you cold start the motor. ArmorGlide prevents that.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eAnti-Detonation Grooves and Forced Pin Oiling\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWiseco machines anti-detonation grooves into the top of the piston. Those grooves disrupt the flame front during combustion and reduce the chance of detonation. They're not going to save you if you're running a garbage tune but they help. The pistons also have forced pin oiling. There's an oiling hole that directs oil to the wrist pin during the compression stroke. That keeps the pin and the small end of the rod lubricated under high loads. Better lubrication means less wear and longer life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePick Your Compression Ratio\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWiseco makes these pistons in five different compression ratios. Here's how to pick the right one for your build:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e10.2:1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low compression for high-boost turbo setups. If you're running 15+ PSI on pump gas or you're pushing serious boost on E85, this is the compression ratio you want. Lower compression gives you more room to add timing and boost without knocking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e11.1:1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Mild compression for street turbo builds or conservative all-motor setups. Works well for 8-12 PSI on 93 octane or for naturally aspirated motors that aren't running aggressive cams.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e12.5:1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Higher compression for all-motor builds or very low boost applications. If you're building a naturally aspirated K series for VTEC crossover power or you're running a mild 5-6 PSI supercharger setup, 12.5:1 works.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e13.7:1:\u003c\/strong\u003e High compression for serious all-motor racing. This is for motors running race gas or E85 with no boost. You're chasing every bit of compression to make power from displacement and RPM.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e14.2:1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Maximum compression for dedicated all-motor race builds on race fuel. If you're running a built K series on the dyno pulling 9,000+ RPM on C16 or similar race gas, this is the ratio. Don't run 14.2:1 on pump gas or you're going to detonate immediately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe compression ratio you pick depends on your fuel, your boost level, and your tuning. Don't just guess, figure out what compression ratio you need before you order pistons. If you're not sure, ask your engine builder or your tuner. Running the wrong compression ratio means you're either leaving power on the table or you're knocking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWiseco forged pistons for K20\/K24 Frankenstein motors\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e87mm bore size\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2618 aluminum forging for high tensile strength\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eArmorGlide skirt coating for reduced friction and seizure resistance\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAnti-detonation grooves machined into piston crown\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eForced pin oiling for wrist pin lubrication\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePrecision-machined for tight tolerances\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMade in USA\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAvailable in five compression ratios: 10.2:1, 11.1:1, 12.5:1, 13.7:1, 14.2:1\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSold as complete piston set (4 pistons)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These Motors\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24 block with K20 head (Frankenstein builds)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e87mm bore (requires machine work on K24 block to achieve 87mm bore)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e These are 87mm bore pistons. The K24 block has an 87mm bore from the factory so these are stock bore pistons for K24 blocks. If you're building a Frankenstein motor with a K24 block and K20 head, these pistons drop right in at stock bore size. You'll need piston rings, wrist pins, and circlips separately, those aren't included. Make sure you order the correct compression ratio for your build. Higher compression ratios (12.5:1, 13.7:1, 14.2:1) are for naturally aspirated motors or very low-boost setups. Lower compression ratios (10.2:1, 11.1:1) are for turbo builds. If you're not sure which compression ratio you need, talk to your engine builder or tuner before you order. Running the wrong compression can cause detonation and engine damage. When you're assembling the motor, follow proper piston-to-wall clearance specs for 2618 aluminum pistons. 2618 pistons need more clearance than cast pistons because the material expands more when it gets hot. Check Wiseco's spec sheet for the correct clearance. Too tight and the pistons will seize when the motor gets hot. Too loose and you'll have piston slap and excessive blow-by. Get it right the first time.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Wiseco","offers":[{"title":"10.2:1","offer_id":49304017076520,"sku":"WSC-K568M87","price":683.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"11.1:1","offer_id":49304017109288,"sku":"WSC-K631M87","price":613.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"12.5:1","offer_id":49304017142056,"sku":"WSC-K634M87","price":683.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"13.7:1","offer_id":49304017174824,"sku":"WSC-K573M87AP","price":776.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"14.2:1","offer_id":49304017207592,"sku":"WSC-K650M87AP","price":776.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/wiseco-k20-24-87mm-bore-piston_88sr.jpg?v=1777299317"},{"product_id":"blox-racing-k-series-ivtec-camshafts-type-b","title":"Blox Racing K-series iVTEC Camshafts - Type-B","description":"BLOX Racing offers performance enthusiasts and racers its high performance line of Tuner and Competition Series camshafts in several different profiles, as well as, its line of semi-blank camshaft cores. All camshafts are designed and manufactured using the latest software and casting technologies, then CNC-ground to precise tolerances and performance specifications. Each camshaft profile designed offers increased horsepower and torque across the entire RPM range. BLOX Racing camshafts are designed and manufactured using OEM-spec, gun-drilled camshaft cores.\nBLOX Racing K-series Type-B camshafts are ideal for mild to highly modified engine builds.\nUpgraded valvetrain is required. \nHonda RBC or RRC intake manifold is recommended. \nType-B Camshaft Specifications\n\n\nMeasured at Primary Lobes @ 0.050 DurationINTAKE: 210.6° \/ 0.364” EXHAUST: 203.5° \/ 0.319”\n\n\n\nMeasured at Secondary Lobes @ 0.050 DurationINTAKE: 259° \/ 0.523” EXHAUST: 252° \/ 0.466”\n\n\n","brand":"Blox Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49425672929576,"sku":"BXCM-10201","price":744.8,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/BXCM-10201_1.jpg?v=1729524909"},{"product_id":"brian-crower-k-series-connecting-rods-k20-k24","title":"Brian Crower Connecting Rods for Honda K20\/K24","description":"\u003ch3\u003eBrian Crower Connecting Rods - Honda K20\/K24\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're building a boosted K series and you need connecting rods that aren't going to bend or snap when you're making 400 wheel horsepower. Your stock rods are fine for 250-300 whp but past that, you're asking for trouble. The rod bolts stretch, the rod beam flexes, and eventually something breaks. Brian Crower forges these H-beam connecting rods from 4340 chromoly steel. They're built for turbo and supercharged K series motors making serious power. Brian Crower makes these rods in two power ratings: 350 HP and 500 HP. If you're building a mild turbo K making 350-400 whp, get the 350 HP rods. If you're building a high-horsepower K making 450-500+ whp or you're running aggressive boost and high RPM, get the 500 HP rods. Both versions come with ARP2000 rod bolts that don't stretch like stock hardware. These rods work for K20A2, K20Z1, K20Z3, K24A1, K24A2, K24A4, and K24A8 motors.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's Why Stock Rods Fail on Boosted K Motors\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYour stock K series connecting rods are powdered metal. Honda sinters metal powder into the rod shape and then machines it. That process is cheap to manufacture and the rods work fine for stock power levels. But powdered metal rods are brittle. When you add boost and you're making 350-400+ whp, cylinder pressures go way up. Every time the piston hits top dead center on the compression stroke, the connecting rod's getting compressed. Every time the piston's forced down on the power stroke, the rod's getting stretched. That constant loading and unloading stresses the rod. Powdered metal can't handle that stress like forged steel can. The rod bolts are the first thing to fail. Stock rod bolts stretch under high cylinder pressure. Once they stretch, they don't clamp the rod cap tight anymore. The rod cap shifts, the bearing spins, and you've got metal chunks in your oil pan. Even if the bolts hold, the rod beam itself can bend or crack. We've seen stock K series rods bend at 400 whp and snap completely at 450+ whp. Don't wait for that to happen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eH-Beam Rods Are Stronger and Lighter\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBrian Crower forges these rods from 4340 chromoly steel. Forging compresses the grain structure of the metal and makes it way stronger than cast or powdered metal. The H-beam design means the rod's cross-section looks like an H when you look at it from the end. That H shape gives you maximum strength with minimum weight. The beam's thick where it needs to be strong (at the big end and small end) and it's narrower in the middle to save weight. Less rotating mass means the motor revs faster and you're not wasting energy accelerating heavy rods up and down. Brian Crower CNC machines every rod to tight tolerances so the weight's matched within a few grams across the set. Matched weight matters because if one rod's heavier than the others, you've got an imbalance and the motor's going to vibrate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eARP2000 Rod Bolts Don't Stretch\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe rod bolts are what hold the rod cap to the rod beam. Stock rod bolts are basic fasteners. They're torqued to a specific value and they work fine for stock power. Under high cylinder pressure, they stretch. Once they stretch, they lose clamping force. The rod cap can shift and the bearing can spin. ARP2000 rod bolts are made from a proprietary alloy that's way stronger than stock hardware. They're heat-treated and they don't stretch under high loads. When you torque ARP2000 bolts to spec, they maintain clamping force even when you're making big power. You're not retorquing them after every track day and you're not worrying about them letting go. Brian Crower includes ARP2000 bolts with these rods. Don't reuse your stock rod bolts. Don't use cheap aftermarket bolts. Use the ARP hardware that comes with the rods.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePick the Right Power Rating for Your Build\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBrian Crower makes these rods in two versions: 350 HP and 500 HP. The 350 HP rods are designed for street and street\/track K series motors making up to around 400 whp. If you're running a K20 or K24 with a small turbo making 350-400 whp on pump gas or E85, the 350 HP rods handle it. The 500 HP rods are designed for high-horsepower builds making 450-500+ whp. If you're running a big turbo, high boost, and aggressive tuning, get the 500 HP rods. The main difference between the two is the rod beam thickness and the overall strength rating. Both use the same ARP2000 hardware. Both are forged from 4340 chromoly. The 500 HP rods are just built heavier to handle more power. Don't cheap out and buy the 350 HP rods if you're planning to make 500 whp later. Buy the right rods for your power goal now.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eK20 vs. K24 Rod Length\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBrian Crower makes these rods in K20 length and K24 length. The K20 rod is shorter. The K24 rod is longer. If you're building a K20A2, K20Z1, or K20Z3 motor, you need K20 rods. If you're building a K24A1, K24A2, K24A4, or K24A8 motor, you need K24 rods. If you're building a Frankenstein motor with a K24 block and a K20 head, you need K24 rods because the rod length is determined by the block, not the head. Don't order the wrong rod length. Measure your stroke and confirm which rod length you need before you order. Wrong rod length means the piston's either hitting the head or it's not coming up high enough and your compression ratio's off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBrian Crower H-beam connecting rods for K20\/K24 motors (set of 4)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eForged from 4340 chromoly steel\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCNC machined to tight tolerances\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWeight-matched set (all rods within a few grams of each other)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eARP2000 rod bolts included\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAluminum\/silicon\/bronze pin bushings\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMicropolished surface finish\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAvailable in 350 HP or 500 HP ratings\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAvailable in K20 or K24 rod lengths\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These Engines\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20A2\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20Z1, K20Z3\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24A1, K24A2, K24A4, K24A8\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Order the correct rod length for your motor - K20 rods for K20 motors, K24 rods for K24 motors. If you're building a K24 block with a K20 head, you need K24 rods. Order the correct power rating for your build - 350 HP rods for up to ~400 whp, 500 HP rods for 450+ whp. When you're assembling the motor, follow the torque specs for ARP2000 hardware. Don't use the stock torque spec. ARP provides specific torque values and you need to follow them. Use ARP Ultra-Torque assembly lube on the threads and under the bolt heads. Have your machine shop resize the rod big ends after installing the ARP bolts - the bolts clamp tighter than stock hardware and the big end bore diameter will shrink slightly.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Brian Crower","offers":[{"title":"K20 \/ 350 HP","offer_id":49555348521256,"sku":"BRC-CNR-01-01","price":596.15,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"K24 \/ 350 HP","offer_id":49555348554024,"sku":"BRC-CNR-01-02","price":596.15,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"K20 \/ 500 HP","offer_id":49555348586792,"sku":"BRC-CNR-01-03","price":851.68,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"K24 \/ 500 HP","offer_id":49555348619560,"sku":"BRC-CNR-01-04","price":851.68,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/brian-crower-connecting-rods-f_6b0l.jpg?v=1777476983"},{"product_id":"skunk2-racing-shift-knob-in-gun-metal","title":"Skunk2 Racing Shift Knob (M10x1.5mm)","description":"Transform your driving experience with the Skunk2 Racing Shift Knob, a premium accessory designed to enhance shift engagement and precision. Crafted from billet stainless steel and finished with a PVD titanium coating, this shift knob is not only a stylish addition to your vehicle's interior but also built to withstand the rigors of daily use without succumbing to scratches and wear.\n\nWeighing in at a custom 440 grams, the heft of this shift knob improves shift feel and accuracy, making every gear change both smooth and definitive. When paired with the Skunk2 Racing short shifter, this shift knob creates an unmatched shifting experience, offering the ultimate in positive shift engagement for driving enthusiasts. \u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: bold;\"\u003eKey Features: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eConstructed from high-quality billet stainless steel for durability and longevity. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFinished with a PVD titanium coating that resists scratching and wear, ensuring a lasting, pristine look. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCustom-weighted to 440 grams to improve shift feel and precision. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDesigned to work seamlessly with the Skunk2 Racing short shifter for enhanced shift engagement. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGun Metal finish adds a sleek, sophisticated touch to your vehicle's interior. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: bold;\"\u003eBenefits: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eEnhanced shift engagement and accuracy for a more enjoyable driving experience. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDurable construction and finish resist the signs of daily wear. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCustom weighting provides a substantial feel, allowing for smoother gear changes. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePerfectly complements the Skunk2 Racing short shifter for those seeking the ultimate shifting performance. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Skunk2 Racing","offers":[{"title":"5 Speed","offer_id":49636397744424,"sku":"SK2-627-99-0080","price":63.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"6 Speed","offer_id":49636397777192,"sku":"SK2-627-99-0081","price":63.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/SK2-627-99-0080_2.jpg?v=1734464713"},{"product_id":"k-series-coolant-tube-block-plug","title":"Circuit Hero K-Series Coolant Tube Block Plug","description":"This Circuit Hero product helps eliminate unnecessary parts for a K-series race engine build. This billet coolant plug eliminates the coolant pipe that leads to the OEM K-series thermostat housing. FeaturesCNC 1-piece Premium 6061 aluminum Easy Installation (does require the drilling of a small hole through thermostat housing for Allen screw)Re-use or replace factory rubber O-ring from OEM coolant tube Use in conjunction with OEM Honda Hex Plug P\/N# 12208-PR3-000 \u0026amp; Crush Washer P\/N 12209-PR3-000Compatible with K20 and K24 thermostat bodies ","brand":"Circuit Hero","offers":[{"title":"Black","offer_id":49661142270248,"sku":"CH-CBP-BK","price":25.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Raw","offer_id":49661142303016,"sku":"CH-CBP-RAW","price":25.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0737\/6604\/3944\/files\/CH-CBP-RAW_4crop.jpg?v=1735232334"}],"url":"https:\/\/unit1203.com\/collections\/make-honda-element.oembed?page=2","provider":"Unit 1203","version":"1.0","type":"link"}